Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Good to hear such glowing reviews of these. I plan on upgraping from FSESC4.12 to 6.6 Simplify very soon and it sounds like they are pretty damn reliable

1 Like

I’m looking to print some wheel pulleys foe my Rockstar 2 hubs and I’m trying to decide what the best material would be. I’m looking for something that:

  • Is strong enough not to break/crack

  • Is not hydroscopic

  • Minimal amount of bed warping concern

The plan is to print at 100 percent infill. I’ve considered PETG and nylon so far, but im open to suggestions

From my experience, nylon is a little more fussy to print, but results in a wonderfully tough and wear-resistant part. It is a little hygroscopic, but that shouldn’t affect its performance as a pulley. PETG can be easier to print, but it’s a little more brittle and not quite as tough.

My $0.02, if you can afford it and your printer can handle it, go nylon 100%.

WHAT THE **** HAPPENED HERE?

I was cleaning the other motor, hooked it back to see that it’s not working, but the other side started doing this, it was fine 5mins ago, what the? Should I Redo the motor detection?

Any recommendations for a thread cutter? I want to add some mm to axel

I am pretty sure you should always run detection after unplugging motors

1 Like

I’ve found this to be the case as well.

But the one in the video was not unpluged…

So I guess balance chargers from HobbyKing also need a power supplpy, it doesn’t come included.

I can pair this charger

with this power supply

because it’s within 11-17 volts and 7 amps seems good for a 10ah 12c pack?

Sounds like the exact same thing to me? :joy: Maybe post a diagram?

Make sure to do like this with the fish paper :slight_smile:

https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/please-review-my-battery-pack-so-i-dont-make-a/70102/573?u=legend27

Only do a re detect if you are absolutely certain there is nothing wrong with the motor. Run a quick hand phase test on it to check theres nothing shorting out in there or you will brick your vesc with a detection.

Let’s say the phase wires on the motor are A, B, and C

Disconnect them from the ESC

Touch A+B together. Verify the motor has choppy brakes

Touch A+C together. Verify the motor has choppy brakes

Touch B+C together. Verify the motor has choppy brakes

Touch A+B+C together. Verify the motor has SMOOTH brakes that are much stronger

All the choppy brakes should feel the same. If one is weaker or stronger or if anything isn’t as described above, it means you might have winding issues.

1 Like

I put an actual guide up for this now

https://forum./t/how-to-hand-test-a-bldc-motor/568

6 Likes

Very helpful knowledge and I sincerely hope its been bookmarked by enough chaps because I have lost count of how many times I have posted it lol @Komamtb that info is courtesy of @b264 and has saved me a couple of times now.

1 Like

Was that supposed to be directed towards me? I don’t remember ever mentioning a motor

1 Like

My apologies it was supposed to go to @Komamtb Both start with K :roll_eyes:

1 Like

I haven’t seen anything in that size but have seen 12x21x5 never tried them but pretty sure they wouldn’t work

Get larger bearing and bore the core out? If you flood it with epoxy it will give a good seat

How hard would it be to make custom motor cans? Or at least mod them to have cooling fins

Are you a machinist? If so, not very hard.

1 Like

Would it be any good? I can take the paint off the can and make press fit heat fins but I’m not sure if that would actually help