Most of the heat is created in the stator and not the rotor. It’d be better to try to cool that directly, without using air to conduct the heat.
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Are you experiencing hot motors?
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Yes but they are cheap hubs, I haven’t actually made a proper board yet but I’ll run dual MTO 6355s at 60 motor amps and a hair trigger throttle so they may get toasty
No they won’t. Not with your light weight. Thinking that cooling fins on hub cans might slightly interfere with the urethane. What do I know.
Messing sunshine. You get hot motors then get bigger motors or if they are hubs, don’t buy a raptor drive
Words to live by.
lol, I couldn’t afford a Raptor if I wanted one, or bigger motors (I’m already 4mm short with 55s)
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If you can, add 8mm washers to the axle to move the wheels out. Then put the nylock nut on backwards to make sure its fully threaded. It has to be a new nylock and needs to grip atleast 2 metal threads. Its risky, but it works for some people
Edit, it should be as tight as possible without breaking stuff
@ZachTetra @Dirt_Bag You can also get other forms of locking nuts than nylock, and don’t need that extra couple mm of engagement, such as flex-top and distorted-thread locknuts. McMaster has several flavors in stock, and I’m sure you could find other suppliers and styles. They’re commonly used where either the service temperature (or environmental effects) would degrade the nylon insert, or where even tougher locking and vibration resistance is required. (I used them on aerospace hardware.)
Hell, some tough threadlocker and a regular nut will do as long as you make sure everything is clean and wait the recommended time for it to set up properly.
I would not do this. You can buy washers that are less than 1mm thick to use instead of doing that.
Its an ancient skaters trick for widening the track of your wheels reversing the nut. Stop treading on history Brian.
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Jlabs pulleys work by doing this, and I have done it multiple times with no issues.
That’e the current plan, I might be able to use 15mm belts rn but otherwise I can get the last mil by going to 12mm
Is there a problem having the belt so close to the wheel? I am using a press fit pulley from BKB, which is supposed to be made for orangtangs wheels. I did a test run and didn’t feel anything weird, but it was my first time ridding belts.
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dose anyone have any idea how to build 10s6p battery so that it can be charged in less than two hours im using samsung 30 q cells thats about all i know im not sure how to make it fast charge able or how to lay it out so it can fit under my 40 inch deck
Probably a 5 amp charger should do the trick.
thank you i most need help with how to assemble a 12s4p
Sorry but if you are asking that question you shouldn’t be building your own battery. Do a lot of reading and you will eventually find out.
But this would be a good point to start: Please review my battery pack so I don't make a 🔥 - ESK8 Electronics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board
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There is a slight misalignment put some speed washers between the hanger and the pulley bearing and see how it is. You can add them and then rotate your wheel to see if the belt is moving.
What do you mean by misalignment? Yo mean that the belt is shifted to the left? In that case it would be easier to move the motor pulley to the right, I cannot fit any more washers on the truck axle.
I have one. I’m building an electric mountainboard and I’m thinking of using either a VESC 4.2 or a VESC 6.6. I’d save almost 90 bucks if I chose a 4.2, but I’m unsure of whether it’s worth it. How much different would the experience be?
Oh, also is Multistar a decent manufacturer of Lipos? I’ve heard that they’re prone to combustion, and I want to make sure that any risks are minimized. I was thinking of wiring two of these in series https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multistar-High-Capacity-6S-12000mAh-Multi-Rotor-Lipo-Pack-10C-XT90-Plug-266-4wh/113737716828?hash=item1a7b4bd45c:g:KA8AAOSwPT5czn2Z.