Please review my battery pack so I don't make a 🔥

It’s better if the balance wires don’t cross until they exit the pack. They can all cross right there at the balance connector.

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With the way he has the balance cables organized its really hard to keep them from overlapping without a space in between, especially the ones in the middle.

I will sometimes do one side in the middle cover it with fish paper and then do the other.

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Exactly what @yelnats8j said. Also if i wanted to separate every balance lead wires would also need to be extended and that would just lead to a bigger mess of wires.

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Looks ok. Do you have any clearer pictures showing the spot welds?

Also I take it the side without the fishpaper under the fold is the negative pole. If yes then you are good. If it is the positive, you may have a problem.

20190506_072001 20190506_071958 20190506_071955

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You want the area shown with the red arrows to be covered with fish paper. If the strips ever cut through the shrink wrap you will have a short.

Screenshot_20190506-150439_Chrome

It should be like this:

20190320_095650

You welds look a little cold too.

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Ok will fix that when I get home

I usualy test the welds to see if I can pull then off and it wasnt possible.

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If the welds hold you are good, they just appeared a little cold to me but I could be wrong. I also uploaded a picture of what I meant with the fish paper

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Hmm welds are really hard to judge usually, all of the welds on my boss welder don’t look like their welded but when I try to pull them off most of the time it lifts the negative terminal of the battery

My settings are 2x 2 7ms

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Hello, I am at the stage of building batteria for my project. I would ask for criticism or catching errors that I could make during the design. I will use the Samsung 30t battery. I want to create 10s2p which will give me a total of 70A and 6Ah. I will use a spot welder and nickel 10mm x 0.15 for serial and parallel connections. In addition, the series wants to connect with a 10awg silicone cable or a 6 mm copper (pvc) cable. I am still waiting for fish paper to reach me to perform the isolation of groups P. On the positive and negative sides will be insulated (in the local store I have access to 18650, will it be ok or better to get bigger?). I will use BMS bestech 80a. I would like to put the batteries in printed ABS handles (the pet will be better despite the lower resistance to temperature?) IMG_20190508_205435 Thanks for your help!I

:kissing_heart:

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Btw: This is dangerous: image @M.Hboards

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What about this pack? Not built by me btw :slight_smile:

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eskating? I have such a pack laying at home for a repair. Each serie has copper braided over the nickel. The only thing I am missing is heatshrink around the pack

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Yes it is. In my newbie eyes it looks well built. This is a friend of mines pack (heatshrink was removed to check bms) but i have the exact same pack on my esk8 with about 15 cycles so far, works great.

Copper braided over the nickel? Could you explain more? :slight_smile:

to handle more current :wink:

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@pjotr47 i put 2 layers of kapton tape there one over the bms lead tab and one over the other wire. Screenshot_2019-05-09-18-06-58~2

It shouldn’t be running over a corner of nickel. The nickel could pierce the wire causing a short

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Kapton/polyimide tape is not as good as fishpaper, especially for abrasion on the edge of metal

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15575409626028150544417546548643 How did you attach the P-Groups together These dont seem good?