Yeah, that’s something I’d be pretty worried about… soldering that NRF was a real MF.
Further information for diagnostic purposes:
- Remote boots correctly when micro usb connected directly to nano, but not from battery
- Battery is fully charged
- Boots every time after reset button pressed
- Once remote has booted correctly (screen turns on) it pairs with the receiver every time (suggests NRF modules wired correctly?)
- Receiver doesn’t seem to need any rebooting, gets straight into it every time. But then the receiver doesn’t have an lcd screen, which is the main symptom of the problem with the remote.
Here’s a list of things I’ve tried:
Added 10K resistor from RX to GND
Added 22pF capacitor from RST to GND
Moved 10K resistor, so now from RX to TX
Jumped TX to GND, with 10K resistor between RX and TX
Checked resistance between all points on the NRF chip - confirmed no shorts
Double checked wiring schematic for NRF - confirmed wired correctly.
Checked battery voltage - 4.5V
Checked voltage from boost converter - 5.6V
Tried alternative battery (LG HG2 - 4V) - identical behaviour from remote (won’t boot from turning on switch, boots from pressing reset)
Interesting observation - if I open the circuit by disconnecting the battery, then reconnect the battery, the remote boots correctly. This is leading me to believe the issue is with the switch or the 10K resistor wired to Analog 2 (I’ve connected this to the switch).
EDIT
Can confirm the fault was with the 10K resistor and switch. I had wired the resistor to the side of the switch going to the charging board/battery. This meant the resistor was closing the circuit between the battery and analog pin 2.
I switched the resistor to the other leg of the switch, and everything is working perfectly.
Now the question is whether I should remove the RX resistor and RST capacitor? Any harm having them there if I’m not using them?