Not with the UNIK dual mount, which Iām definitely keen to use.
Spoiler alert: I ordered one e-caliber from UNIK. Still interested in peopleās thoughts though.
Iām changing my wheels, so also the gearing. Going from dual 6374 190kv 14/38 2,71:1 on 110mm wheels. My wheels will be 97mm, and I can choose either 16t 2,38:1 or 18t 2,11:1. I would like to gear more for speed, but I think 2,11:1 gearing would be too much for those motors heat wise and maybe the torque loss would be too great? Iām a light rider - 70kg.
You wheels should not factor in to this as they are on the axle and not the hanger which is where the mounts and everything are. Caliber hangers are 184mm I would get the wheel pulleys to see how much room on the hanger they cover. You can always push them out a bit with speed rings. The e caliber just has longer axles so you would be able to push the mounts to the very edge of the same 184mm hanger
Some of you are going to think this is funny but Iāve become frustrated trying to sand my deck to a finish with no tiny scratch marks. I know absolutely nothing about wood work. Iāve hand sanded, but even after 220 grit I can still see tiny scratches in the direction I sanded (after painting which is more frustrating). Tried getting a random orbit sander and a foam interface for the curved parts. Somehow this made it worse in some sections, these orbital sanders are really shitty and make scratches on curved surfaces even with this interface pad. Iād stop here had I not spent so much damn time on a simple taskā¦ any ideas?
a few things first you should always go with the grain of the wood never acrossed. Which is why it looks worse with the orbital sander cause it is spinning in a semi circle. Every once in a while you get a piece of wood that has knots in it and they are a bitch because the grain goes around the knot. Now as far as grit of sandpaper goes 220 is the general go to to sand in between either layers of paint or clear coat because it roughs up the surface enough for the layer on top to adhere to the layer on the bottom. Now 220 is still rough as fuck in terms of sand paper on my builds I used 800-2000 grit. Now as far as painting goes are you using a spray can or brush on. Spray will lay on smoother if you have a steady hand or a spray gun/spray paint handle to give you even pressure on the nozzle. Brush on there is technique and type of brushes involved. If you are really after the no brush strokes look you need a high quality brush like this
https://www.purdy.com/products/brushes/nylox/nylox-sprig/
Thanks you for this response. I have been using spray paint. I always sand with the grain when hand sanding, but I can still see the scratches once Ibstart painting. So are you saying I should hand sand with a Grit higher than 220 prior to the first coat of paint to avoid this? For some reason I thought going higher would make the deck too smooth for paint to adhere.
Was this a blank uncoated deck that you are using? I would go higher like 400 then step to 600 and then try spraying it again. I also donāt normally go up and down the board just down so it is just one stroke of sanding each time.
Thanks Iāll try it. Itās a blank unpainted deck now because I stripped all the original paint off with 100 grit and then went up in increments of 20 all the way up to 220.
Ok so you did do the proper way, you donāt always have to do the 20 grit increments you can jump from 100 to 200. But try it with 400 then 600. What type of clear coat are you doing?
Krylon. I feel like pulling my damn hair out. For some reason now everytime I spray paint it, it looks all gritty like someone threw a tiny amount of sand on the surface just before I painted. Even though I cleaned the hell out of it after sanding and used pressurized air to get any paper towel residue off.
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Get a tack clothes at Home Depot/ Loweās it gets all the fine dust off. Maybe try rustoleum 2x paint it is like a paint and primer in one Iām not a big fan of krylon paints.
Hey there,
Are there any good complete electric mountainboards out there that is reasonably reliable and not the slow. (Below $2000)
Hello guys here I am again:
I want to make a new board with a modular battery design just like the landwheel so I can borrow an extra battery with me and change them when one is running low.
I am thinking of replicating the landwheel quite a bit because it is a simple design, the only thing I am not sure of is the connectorā¦ To connect the battery to the electronics I need a connector that can plug in and out fairly easy (like a xt90) AND most importantly be waterproof, better said splash proof.
So do you have any sugestions on a connector that is easy to connect and disconnect and is waterproof? is an xt90 a good candidate?
Nice build!
it is not realy what im searching for because I want to make it all myself but thanks 
I think that XT connector is not bad choice, If it is not pulled out by vibration on running. Iām looking forward to your build!
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Just joined so pretty sure I count. So hereās my questions Iām looking to convert my cruiser, my current issue is I have 56mm wheels and finding a motor to fit is proving difficult. Any suggestions?
My deck is 7.4" and Iām running Indy 11 109 trucks I donāt really want to change any of that, the wheels may be small but soft 78A and the build works really well for me.
Main purpose for the conversion is to handle going up hills getting to work save getting of and walking, I want to be able to skate normally on flats and downhill.
Any help would be great can give more info on my current setup and pictures if you want just ask.
I donāt think itās possible to find parts for that unless you go DIY and make it yourself.
You could either buy some bigger wheels, trucks etc. and only keep the deck or start from the bottom and keep your cruiser the way it is.
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Yeh, kinda figured. Not sure where I would start with DIY on the motor. Currently options are going to have to buy an electric and keep cruiser as is but not sure I wouldnāt get to lazy to never use my cruiser.
Any tips on where to start looking into the DIY option?