You CAN pair any VESC based ESC via CAN. Should work just fine. We have coupled HW 4.12 with VESC 6 without any problems. Socbox is a 4.12 with direct Fets. Just make sure to fire them up simoultaniously. If you fail to do so, the black ESC will fry itās CAN transciever.
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so as long as I have both vescās on the same circuit, and control that, say with a single loop key, everything should be just fine?
Yes 10char
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Ok, heres a quick question for all you electrical people out there. I have had an idea of how I could safely merge two batteries balance leads when the nominal amp discharge is 120A but max charge is 40A.
This is because when you connect two 6s lipos in parallel to make a 6s2p, each cell balance connector needs to be merged with the 2pās balance connector - and if their voltages are even slightly off, one of the batteries would flood the other to bring them into equilibrium.
So would putting resistors inline with each balance lead when connected, limit the maximum amperage flow from the batteries max output (of 120A), to the max charging rate. or am I just sleep deprived enough to think this is possible?
I have seen xt 90 plug with screw tabs for easy panel mounting, but I canāt find any to buy, could someone share an ebay link, or the exact name of that type of plug?
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180930215516&SearchText=xt90+mount
just choose which is comfortable for you
Do a board have to be turned on to charge the battery?
if you use a bms, than the bms need to be switched on.
if no, than no, as long as you didnĀ“t conected your charging wires before your switch or loop key 
Thanks for your answer. Yeah I know, Iāve been sleeping 
I was trying both this thing and regular weight.
It took me a lot of time but I think they are almost balanced now. The question was more like ācan it be really perfectly balanced? Or is it normal to have a bit of vibration at high speedā.
The other problem I had was that my tires were crap (from a very old MTB that I upgraded). I changed 2 tires and it made a hell of a difference. Iāll change the 2 others soon, and hopefully my board feels like a cloud 
BMS without e-switch? Will post diagram laterā¦
if your bms donĀ“t have a e-switch itĀ“s always in on position. means if you connect your charger it already will work.
is it a D140 bms?
and no, you donĀ“t need to switch on your board.
the charging wires go directly to the battery (with the bms in between)
but the bms is always āswitchedā on. So itĀ“s like yo connect a blance charger to a lipo pack, there you also donĀ“t need to switch on anything 
Okay Thanks! And yes itās a D140
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Professional Insight needed. Now that I have all the parts and everything laid out for visual.
12s4p battery with charge only BMS Just in case the pictures arenāt legible I will explain my diagram as well. 18awg positive wire from battery directly to charging port 18awg negative wire from battery directly to B- on BMS then have 18awg wire going from CH- directly to charging port 12awg positive and negative wires from battery to Flipsky Anti-Spark Pro switch with on/off plug. Have Flipsky Anti-Spark switch connected with XT90 to Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6 controller Also have battery capacity meter wires connected where Controller connects with anti-spark.
I plan on shortening the wires as much as I can to be able to fit in the enclosure. For now I am just trying to confirm my wiring is correct before I start cutting and soldering. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Looks perfect to me! Go ahead and try the switch
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Yep looks good
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Thank you!
My planned build will have:
- Dual 6354 motors
- UNIK core series dual caliber mount (123mm crossbar)
- 15mm evolve wheel pulleys
- Caguamas
- Standard caliber II trucks
You may have guessed my issue already. I probably wonāt fit that all on the axle of standard caliber II trucks. Say 60mm of wheels + 30mm of belts + 123mm mount crossbar + 15mm mounts + 20mm nut threads = 247mm, standard caliber axle is around 253mm so not much wiggle room there. Iām probably missing something because when Iāve test fit, itās definitely looking like I wonāt even break the nylock in the axle nuts.
Should I get the extended axle calibers? Can someone explain how noticeable it would be if I used an e-caliber on the back, but the standard caliber on the front? Will one inch total axle difference really be that noticeable? And if I did use the extended axles on front and back, wouldnāt the wheels on the front just have excess axle sticking out the side because the hangers are the same size? Do you stick a spacer between the wheel and the hanger or something?
Will changing to the BKB modular wheel pulleys help at all? The combined wheel and pulley bearing saves space, but I could always take this from the end of the hanger anyway. I donāt think the width of the evolve pulley is my issue, itās the 15mm belt width.
Should I go to slimmer belts? I donāt really want to as Iāve already bought a bunch of 15mm parts.
Should I try for the 113mm unik crossmember? If my motors were 54mm exactly they would fit. Recent QC problems to one side, I had my eye on the Flipsky 6354 motor. Their website says this is 54mm in length, so maybe it could fit? But on Aliexpress the length is listed as 57mm, which would definitely not fit.
Canāt you just mount one motor facing to the front and one facing the back?