Neg wire to bms B- P- to neg side of xt90 C- to charger port neg side Battery + terminal to xt90 pos Battery + to charger port + side (before the xt90 connector)
Donāt connect balance wire before you soldered battery - to bms b-.
Any switch will do for on/off
What gauge wire is that coming off the battery? Make sure those bullets are well covered while you get everything together, does that shrink completely cover the bullet ends? If they touch youāre in for a surprise you wont like!
Also did the guy who built it use fish paper? Iām going to be honest, it looks pretty shoddy. Is that duct tape covering the whole thing?
Iām not sure. Itās coming from the used e-bike battery pack. It does cover it totally. Pretty sure not. Iāll tear open the duct tape once I get the fitting pitch.
Yea exept for maybe 1 or 2 corners not
Wtf. What is up with all these people selling batteries that are built like shit?
Sorry butā¦I would never sell a battery that wasnāt completely safe. Could cost someone their home or life.
1 Like
I have to agree with @Chase - Itās hard to tell whats going on in that pack but from the outside it doesnāt look like much care was taken putting it together. A badly built battery of that side is essentially a chemical fire waiting to happen.
Those wires donāt look silicone or the right gauge either.
1 Like
Fully agree. People who sell battery packs should be aware of the danger and just sell if they sure that everything is made properly.
1 Like
But looks like as min he used cell spacer 
But I definitely would take away the black tape and have a look on the welds or solder joins and check if they have the right dimensions.
Donāt understand whatās the problem as min to use normal heatshrink
I will pull the tape of tomorrow and provide pictures.
Take care that you donāt losen a balance wire and short something with it 
This tape could stick very strong on the cells and the cables under
I rode home for lunch break just fine but when I got home I decided to record a video of one of my carvon motors making a weird sound. I think itās the bearing but thatās not the point of this question. When I turned on my board to show the sound while they were provided power I realized the remote was flipped and would full brake when I pulled the trigger back, and would throttle up with it pushed forward. The battery meter also showed the % remaining fluctuating between 0-80. It literally worked fine on the ride home but itās borked now. All the connections look fine. Whatās going on?
Does anyone know what I can run as a max but still safe amount for the follwing if my setup is
12s4p on samsung 30qs 192kv sk3 6374 ( Max Loading: 80A Max Power: 4032W ) 97mm flywheels 36T/18T ratio 345mm belts 12mm 5M 218mm trucks
what I need to know what i can put as a max for top speed and best braking/ regenerative braking:
motor current max motor current max brake motor current max battery current regen
please help!
Durr. Turns out I had accidentally flipped a switch on my remote for reverse. Didnāt even know I could do that!
1 Like
OK, first time thinking about how on earth im going to wire up these 4 lipos with a bms.
How did I do? any problems?
Am I right in thinking I dont need to worry about the other side of each 6s pack as they should auto balance?
which esc you have? dual or singel setup?
Iām not that solder expert but looks kind a messy. One of the main concerns I would have is that there no additional fish paper on the positive terminals and the plastic isolation looks already broken in or burned in some parts. Can you read which cells this are? Red could be Sanyo but not sure.
Sorry to have to tell you this but I wouldnāt have that battery in my home. Workmanship looks bad, itās probably only a matter of time before it fails you.
@Eboosted @darkkevind @bigben @longhairedboy @psychotiller please weigh in here.
It are Sanyo ncr18650ga.
1 Like
Iāve seen worse. Soldering cells is hard if you donāt have a decent iron. I certainly wouldnāt sell this but iād probably skate on it until it burned up if somebody gave it to me.
7 Likes