Finally was able to make the ack android app work. How to interpret the data? What do some of these figures/numbers mean?
Do all cables in my esk8 need to hold up to the max current my board can deliver?
What exactly you donāt understand from it?
Depends which cables in which place. If your battery can output 80a but you run dual motors, your cables after the parallel plug to the esc donāt need to stand 80a, only 40a. The same inside of the battery. Itās a difference between cables you use for parallel and serial connections.
Hello, I left my lipos fully charged for 2 weeks. Now I found out that is a terrible thing to do. How bad could I have hurt them by leaving them fully charged for that time?
What do they indicate and what are their implications to the build in general? (e.g. Temp reaching 82.4C, is it normal or is it something I should be worried about? Motor current reaching 100.2A, is it okay like that? etcā¦)
Hi 
Im currently making some small nickel strips with 10AWG to make my series connections. Itās really hard to make them good because the way the battery is made. I know I shouldnāt solder on the battery but if I decide to how much time can I leave the soldering iron on the battery? Maybe someone have a better idea?
I donāt use ack app but you can set this app up for single motor and dual. What you have on your board and are the settings shown in the app for one or for two motors? At 80 degree your vesc start the restrict your power output to not totally overhead. If you set your bat max for single drive to 60a that can happen easily. Reduce the settings to 40a (35 if itās a vesc with hw 4.12) or get a heatsink case from @Kug3lis if you have a focbox, than it should be ok. Motor max i would also reduce to 60-80a
The speed is calculated by the settings you input in the app (depending on your gearing and wheel size)
The down part is the average usage of power, current etc. Itās calculate on the values recorded during your trip
Bud. Please listen. Your battery looks unsafe. I donāt think it has 12awg silicone wire, the soldering looks bad.
You donāt know enough to be stabbing around in the dark right now. Do two things please:
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Google lithium battery explosions and get scared
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Stop what you are doing, return that battery and get your money back and read a significant amount more or get an experienced esk8 battery and board builder to build you a board.
Maybe you can first solder, than spot weld?
Yea but they are too hard to make BUT I found a solution!
Iām just going to put some small nickel tabs on the ends and spot weld it like that. Pretty much the same as before but much easier.
Did you already assembled all tape?
Can you make some pictures from all sides?
There some parts of the pack which I would worry about.
The isolation ring shouldnāt be damaged, just as one.
I think you read a lot here, so you should know about the necessarity of fishpaper in battery packs.
There was just one more LiIon fire some days ago.
Do you have some backstory from the cells? Is this guy here on the forum? Do you think you have an opportunity to return the pack? If yes take the advice from @brenternet and return it please
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The fact that there has been used gorilla tape makes me nervous. Donāt know much about gorilla tape but pretty sure it SHOULDNāT be used in a battery pack. Also there is no fish paper around positive ends of the cells
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Yes I do. The batteries come from an e-bike. He said the batteries were only discharged at 1 amp each, with a overall capacity of still 3350 mah per cell.
He isnāt, I met him on a local website called marktplaats.nl
I donāt think he will take it back. Let me ask. I got it made specially in this setupā¦
Some background info about the pack builder: He has built his own e-bike which he uses everyday to get to school. Heās got a awesome working place and Iām guessing his dad has a technical background. And lastly heās 17 years old.
Let me take the rest of the tape off and Iāll provide some better pictures @brenternet the wires are the same that the e-bike battery used.
You know that this cells rated for 10a? If you do than ok, if no, than you should understand that with your 4p pack you can get max 40a or 20a per vesc in dual out of it.
Yes I knew that from the beginning.
I figured I wouldnāt need more than 40 amps 
![image|666x500]
It looks like he used some kind of isolator.
Getting pictures from the inside too would be too much a hassle. Iām afraid Iāll break connections or wires.
(upload://yaCll6W4PnkPENcz9VyuXnaD3R7.jpeg) 
There some things I donāt like.
Especially the balance wires in this places could cause a short.
Donāt get it wrong just say my opinion, but why you have a battery with 40a and than a bms die 80a? Itās not wrong but you could get a smaller and cheaper one for that too.
And one thing I donāt understand about the guy who made you the pack. If he or his pap has an background in electronics, why they use tape to cover the batteries? 
If they would as min use tape which is made specially for batteriesā¦or heatshrinkā¦
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Oh I thought of this a long time. I wanted a bestech bms cause you gotta take care of your batteries like babies right?
Could have bought another one but then I would need a extra anti spark. Turned out around the same cost so thatās why I got the bestech
I really have no idea.
Edit: Iām going to try and get a part of my money back. Cut the loss and order a battery from pjotr
I asked him about it and he said this is how he always makes his batteries and that the battery is well-made. He also said he doesnāt take refunds and if I thought it would be too dangerous to use I could sell itā¦
If that battery cost more than $30 youāve been done
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