Have you seen where he rides? 
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@Drom Because with these motor controllers, “full throttle” is not always synonymous with “full current.” Think of your car - Cruising down the highway at 70mph, are you using full throttle? No. Because even though you might have an engine capable of producing 500 horsepower, it only takes about 30-80 horsepower to cruise on the highway at 70mph.
The reason you want dual vescs at 80A is the same reason you’d prefer to drive a 500hp sportscar compared to a 100hp honda civic - acceleration. Sure, a civic can cruise at 70mph just as well as a sportscar , but you’ll take a lot longer to reach that speed. It’s also the reason it’s harder to pass on the freeway with a gutless car - You have very little power left over for acceleration to pass, whereas a sportscar might still have 420 horsepower to spare, where your civic only has 20hp left over.
The difference in speed between 10A and 50A with no hills with gear ratio adjusted so you reach that current draw at your maximum possible RPM is significant. But either way, it’ll be an incredibly shitty ride because your acceleration from a standstill will be so slow.
Conversely if you have them geared for the same speed, the 50A setting will feel amazing, because while they’ll both eventually reach the same speed, the 50A one will do it in a small fraction of the time.
The 50A setting and the 10A will also consume the same power at top speed. You only need the extra 40A for acceleration.
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Thank you! Ashamed that I didn’t understand it by myself. It’s all about torque, not speed.
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Yep. For electrics, (all other factors being equal) current is torque. More = better.
It’s also worth mentioning more current = more heat, which (aside from battery limitations) is the main reason we can’t just pump 500A through our ESCs and motors. It’s all a balancing act. You can often push way more current through a motor than it’s rated for on a cold day, because it won’t get too hot and melt something.
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Will we ever have PID tied to the motor temp and amp limits to keep them cool?
I’m currently looking to get a reliable charger for a bestech 10s BMS… are there any recommended options? I’m in the UK, so it needs to have a UK plug.
I’d also need to sort out the female end to fit to my enclosure, along with a waterproof cap, if such a thing is available!
im looking for dual chain drive
Having doubts about my reciever placement in my enclosure, can I get some input on what you guys think? Nano-x btw
The red is mostly taken up by the antispark and splitter
1, 2 or 3 plz
IIRC the VESCs already limit amps based on their own temperature; cheaper ESCs often just cut out when they overheat. I have a feeling some motors come with temp sensors as well.
Nvm found what I was looking for
Not 1
We’d need photos probably to help more
10A would work, but I would use a 12A to 20A, preferring the lower end of that range. 10A would work fine but I would go no lower than that.
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Thx. I’ll use something between 12 and 20 then.
What’s the difference between these two motors, and will for example the sk8 be more powerful?
One has sensors, one does not
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One is seales, on is not
I guess I’ll just choose two or three then 
I don’t feel like getting roasted today over my cable management
Cable management is hard, and then even when meticulously planned, shit happens
