In theory the closer you get to the hangar being vertical (90 degrees), the less mechanical advantage you have. So since yours are pretty close to 90 (45+20), youāll have a hard time overcoming the stiffness of the bushings. Iād recommend either getting some adjustable-angle trucks (Iāve seen them on here, but canāt find them right now), or getting/making some angle blocks to cancel out some or all of that extra 20 degrees.
Ideally youād want to have a key installed like @b264 mentioned to prevent rotation, and have the setscrew tightened down to prevent any side-to-side movement. Loctite is an option but not recommended on its own.
If you donāt already own one, I strongly recommend acquiring a set of allen wrenches, specifically the Wera hex-plus ones. Theyāre pricey, but absolutely worth every penny.
Yah I stripped a bolt on my other board so Iām gonna sacrifice a key from my set and some JB weld to get it out. Definitely looking into the Wera hex +, and theyāre not too costly. Heck, I paid half that at Lowes for these junk allen keys and the small ones suck pretty hard.
If the JB weld trick doesnāt work, you can try hammering a slightly oversized torx driver into the stripped socket. That should cut its own grooves into the screw and allow you to back it out.
While I agree with the other points, this is not correct
If you use the right loctite you donāt need anything further to fix the sprocket
Use that red/green stuff I used
About where you are now then
Iām not saying it canāt be a workable solution. But from my own personal experience, even loctite 680 sleeve retainer can fail, and has for me on wheel pulleys in the past, which is why I donāt use it in that application anymore and thus it is not recommended in my book. I will always use either a key or a setscrew on a flat.
Loctite 648 and 680 can fail. Under normal conditions though that failure has more to do with improper application than anything else.
Typical mistakes are inadequate degreasing, curing time, too big gap etc
Please, tell me all about the proper use of anaerobic threadlocking and retaining compounds. Itās not like I used to work on airplane engines for a living or anything. Sure hope none of those fasteners suffered mistakes like that.
Besides, if itās so easy to do it wrong, then maybe it shouldnāt be the one-stop go-to solution for noobs, whereas a key in a keyway is pretty much idiot-proof.
I bow to your knowledge and experience oh mighty one.
i have 12s4p battery. i need an esc that works with it
Edit: honestly it would work, but if you want something for your board you need to give us some more infos. What you want to get out of your esc?
hey, hopefully its not too late, but I would space that belt out from the wheel. I had some evolve 107s and the belt was a little too close to the back of the wheel
this happened to them after about 75 mi (100 mi total, the first 25mi was using a different setup)
Did it translate into any practical problem when riding? Or was it just aesthetical? I guess that there is extra unnecessary friction.
primarily just aesthetics, but I found that when it was rubbbing against the wheel it made a pretty annoying noise, as well as very slightly decreasing efficiency (wh/km increase)
I think I went from like 15wh/km to 17 or something on averageā¦ Or it could have just been me
Thanks! Iāll see what I can do, perhaps I can get better clearance playing a little bit with the motor pulley.
a change of 3/4mm should be enough to give proper clearance
Depending on the type of truck you use if they are calibers they have the same geometry as Randals and they have a 35 degree baseplate that would people you are 55 and may help your issue.