Buy FOCBOX Unity

Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!


What is a good plug for 8A? I was gonna use an XT30 with a 3D printed cap as a plug but it’s not exactly waterproof


I have them, and they suck because only the super-long barrel plugs fit in them. But they are rated at 7A instead of 5A like all the rest.

Let me repeat, they suck because only the super-long barrel plugs fit in them


i think xt30s are rated around 20amp or something iirc…so all good there… plus so small and tiny too!


Any idea how to waterproof them? I was thinking if I epoxy the male end into the enclosure and seal with silicone, and tie some paracord through the female end and flood with silicone then it should be a water proof loopkey-like plug…but I’m not sure its good enough


I don’t waterproof the jack itself, just make sure water can’t get past the jack.

The high-voltage circuits are less affected by water than the low-voltage ones. If it filled up with water it might waste a few watt-hours of charge but overall shouldn’t be too bad.

You do want to keep sand and other debris out though with a cap


Same goes for phase/sensor wires, loopkey, and voltage display?

I mean I’ve seen people go through a lot to make the enclosure waterproof so I don’t see why you’d skimp out on a port


Strip the metal pins out of an extra connector and seal with silicone. Works like a cap/plug


How do you attach battery holders to a deck? Can I hot glue the holder or double side foam tape?


I wouldn’t recommend either of those. Both hot glue and double sided tape have thermal limits, and hot glue also gets weak and brittle in the cold. I’d recommend screws if possible, or epoxy (both surfaces sanded rough), or maybe a urethane construction adhesive like liquid nails, as long as you’ve tested it for strength and compatibility with the materials it’s sticking to. You want the absolute strongest attachment you can get, with some flex.

Imagine taking the completed board and slamming it on the floor as hard as you can for an hour straight. That’s the kind of abuse an esk8 takes from vibration, so construct accordingly.


Are you talking about attaching the battery to the deck or the enclosure. Battery I would use industrial strength Velcro for the enclosure I would say threaded inserts and screws. What type of enclosure do you have?


It’s a temporary rig…a brushed DC motor from an original metroboard/fake 30Q batteries in plastic holders/sheet steel enclosure that’s clamped between the deck and truck spacers


I have one of these old adapters for dual focbox’s

But then I ended up getting a unity, so my question is can I use this adapter to connect the unity to my battery pack and just leave one of the connectors open? Or would this cause any problems?


Theoretically, it should be good, Just make sure that you isolate the contacts of the xt90 connector you are not using properly. :smile:
If you have a 3D printer you could print something like that:


Guys, while we are talking about charging. I have 3 x 42v chargers (1.5a, 1.8a, 3.5a) and I took a multimeter to them. Not one of them actually measures 42v. They range from 41.5v to 41.9v

Is that normal behaviour? Is it something to do with cc-cv charging?

Not that I really care but I am worried that the bms doesn’t kick in at all to balance the cells at the end cos it never hits 42v :frowning:


Any good address in France or EU for a focbox fix/repair, please gentleman ? :slight_smile:


@fottaz; @Martinsp maybe they can help you. :slight_smile:


Thx a lot sir :pray::grin:


I used crap quality brass inserts for my enclosure, and now one of them has the threads stripped… Any ideas on what to do? Need to replace it with a new one, so I can’t just drill it out since the new insert won’t have anything to grip into. Guess I could fill the hole with some filler if drilling is the only way out


Use a tap and rethread the insert


You need to get it out of there. Use a sharp drill bit that is smaller than the outside threaded section but big enough to remove the inside core. Once you have drilled it then use a small flat bladed screwdriver to wedge out the outside threaded section from the deck. If you get it right the wall of the insert will be thin enough to break away from the deck and leave the outside thread cut into the deck intact. If you get it wrong you will have to up the size of the new insert.