Never mind
If itās the internal thread thatās stripped, you can repair it using a heli-coil kit. Basically you drill out the old thread with a specific size drill, tap it with a special tap, and then insert a special spring that forms new threads that are stronger than the original.
This will only work if thereās a good amount of extra material left for the heli-coil to hold on to, if itās too thin after being drilled and tapped, the brass will just break.
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You wouldnāt need that kit just a tap and die kit and redo the thread it probably is just cross threaded where would be easy to fix.
If itās stripped, (as in, threads are gone) then a tap will do nothing because there will be nothing left to tap.
Unless you go to the next bolt size, which has its own set of problems.
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It wouldnāt be to much to just retap it because it is brass. I just had to retap a pem at my job because the end user put the wrong threaded screw in it.
Does anyone know why I get intermittent hard braking when I full throttle? Am I hitting the cutoff?
Here are my settings:
Unfortunately, I didnāt have my metr recording on both sessions this happened.
Iām using the mini remote.
I donāt know why it does that, but a cutout to āidleā during hard acceleration can feel like hard braking even though itās just ālack of powerā. So, are you sure itās brakes ā or could it be idle?
Roll through the same exact place the cutout happened, except not at full throttle. Does it still cutout?
Try to isolate if itās because of the throttle position or because of the physical locationā¦
Nope. It happens on different locations. This only occurs when I stab the throttle hard.
Iām pretty sure itās brakes because boards āstopsā while I try not to eat the asphalt. Lol
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Could it be that I need to charge the battery? I havenāt fully ācycledā and/or charge it when I got it from @thisguyhere. Although, battery shows 88%.
You know actually, I wonder if your phase wires or your ESC moves slightly under heavy acceleration and itās shorting your phase wires to each other
Although that should blow the ESC FETs right away, I have seen it happen and the FETs didnāt blow, and I still donāt know how they didnāt. But itās something Iāve seen.
That exact problem would cause those exact symptoms.
Check your phase wires insulation and see if your ESC is moving around inside the case and shorting on something
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Possibly. It is currently using bullet plugs insulated with heat shrink. I even did a ācontinuityā check on all of them with the heat shrink installed to make sure they donāt short out.
Stand the board on the tail and check again. Push the ESC back and pull the wires down and turn the motor while doing that
Does it ever engage brakes?
what type of esc/vesc is it cause there was an issue with the unity
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Found out why. It happens when I stab it. Youāll see the motor turn normally when I was gradual w the trigger.
Yes, brakes are good.
should this be good for protecting baterrys and motor
Thatās a cleaner, not a waterproofing chemical. Iām assuming thatās what youāre looking for?
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Switch which motor is connected to which ESC ā does it switch which motor does that?
No, that is not good for that. Keep that off of there
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