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Also if you have the inserts with the part that looks like a flathead screw drive would go in if that was screwed in faceing out you should about able to slowly back it out using a flat head.


What is on the vereal batteries? Xt60 or 90s?


Never mind


If it’s the internal thread that’s stripped, you can repair it using a heli-coil kit. Basically you drill out the old thread with a specific size drill, tap it with a special tap, and then insert a special spring that forms new threads that are stronger than the original.

This will only work if there’s a good amount of extra material left for the heli-coil to hold on to, if it’s too thin after being drilled and tapped, the brass will just break.


You wouldn’t need that kit just a tap and die kit and redo the thread it probably is just cross threaded where would be easy to fix.


If it’s stripped, (as in, threads are gone) then a tap will do nothing because there will be nothing left to tap.

Unless you go to the next bolt size, which has its own set of problems.


It wouldn’t be to much to just retap it because it is brass. I just had to retap a pem at my job because the end user put the wrong threaded screw in it.


Does anyone know why I get intermittent hard braking when I full throttle? Am I hitting the cutoff?

Here are my settings:

Unfortunately, I didn’t have my metr recording on both sessions this happened.

I’m using the mini remote.


I don’t know why it does that, but a cutout to “idle” during hard acceleration can feel like hard braking even though it’s just “lack of power”. So, are you sure it’s brakes – or could it be idle?

Roll through the same exact place the cutout happened, except not at full throttle. Does it still cutout?

Try to isolate if it’s because of the throttle position or because of the physical location…


Nope. It happens on different locations. This only occurs when I stab the throttle hard.

I’m pretty sure it’s brakes because boards “stops” while I try not to eat the asphalt. Lol


Could it be that I need to charge the battery? I haven’t fully “cycled” and/or charge it when I got it from @thisguyhere. Although, battery shows 88%.


You know actually, I wonder if your phase wires or your ESC moves slightly under heavy acceleration and it’s shorting your phase wires to each other

Although that should blow the ESC FETs right away, I have seen it happen and the FETs didn’t blow, and I still don’t know how they didn’t. But it’s something I’ve seen.

That exact problem would cause those exact symptoms.

Check your phase wires insulation and see if your ESC is moving around inside the case and shorting on something


Possibly. It is currently using bullet plugs insulated with heat shrink. I even did a “continuity” check on all of them with the heat shrink installed to make sure they don’t short out.


Stand the board on the tail and check again. Push the ESC back and pull the wires down and turn the motor while doing that

Does it ever engage brakes?


what type of esc/vesc is it cause there was an issue with the unity


Found out why. It happens when I stab it. You’ll see the motor turn normally when I was gradual w the trigger.


Yes, brakes are good.


should this be good for protecting baterrys and motor


That’s a cleaner, not a waterproofing chemical. I’m assuming that’s what you’re looking for?


Switch which motor is connected to which ESC — does it switch which motor does that?