Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Im pretty sure psychotiller only sells 12mm belts with his 6shooters. So im sure it’s fine.

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It doesn’t look like it, but I’m not sure.

If I had to fathom a guess on the least-likely-to-not-work way, it’d be the center switch pin is probably “C” and goes in the middle where it says C1 and the other two pins go to the pads next to it.

If you’re unsure of how it’s wired or how to find out, I would not connect any of the pins to + and to -

Which trucks are you using?

TB218 and 2 6374 Turnigy SK3s. Big boyes.

For same price you can get a 600W server power supply salvaged from retired server farms. Although used these are of much better quality and will last longer. No brainer for most RC guys. Search for “dps-600pb” on ebay. Then google “dps-600pb rcgroups.com” for instructions because you have to short few pins to get it running.

I don’t understand why not just use a $25 BMS and a $25 two-wire charger than go through all the hobby charger nonsense.

$25 BMS will either destroy your cells by letting them go 4.25V or won’t handle debalanced cells with their tiny 50mA balancing resistors if it will even have any…

Or preferable just buy something like DieBieMS maybe it’s pricey but future proof(up to 12S) so can use with multiple builds.

So umm got two bkb 6355 motors from @JLabs awesome site . One screw hole wasn’t tapped all the way and the other motor hole in my other motor was NOT tapped at all.

I went and bought tools to tap them both but totally spaced out on “sealing” the holes before I did it. Is it safe to say that I need to open them up and clean the debris (not sure if any went in them) or just get new motors and NOT risk it.

Thanks mucho

Ah ok, those motors are longer than my 6374’s I was wontwhere your clearance went! You’ll be good with 12mm belts.

Please shoot me an email and I’ll take care of this:

[email protected]

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I doubt that. Folks use them here on most builds. I use them. Have you done research? There is not any reason you can’t use a BMS and regular charger on lipo battery packs.

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That’s what I get for cheaping out and grabbing 3 for 110€(~30€ each) with shipping to my door. :laughing:

:sweat_smile: ok, and how is your hobby charger than working?

Is slowly but shouldn’t be an issue as long as you don’t buy shitty cheap crap lipo packs. If you do, than you have sure other problems than balancing.

It’s not a bms?

If you think that overcharging a cell at 0.05V than just let your bms set up to a lower voltage. Yes that’s possible even with the cheap 25$ one. Is called factory settings.

Do you know what would be a real argument why you should use a hobby charger instead of a bms? With the hobby charger you can drain your lipos to storage voltage.

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That’s just about the only reason that exists, and that can be done by riding it also or connecting a resistor or automotive light bulb on it.

I personally don’t like taking my enclosure apart 5 times per day to charge it, 7 days per week, so I want a regular charger and a BMS inside.

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Both have their uses. For my esk8s I use a BMS and a brick charger for portability and convenience. For my RC batteries where I want to charge my Lipos fast I use this 20190104_183431

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How is it working? By measures voltages properly(if a decent charger) and then simply doesn’t overcharge.

If someone is buing cheap BMS he will probably buy some cheap lipo or lion cells.

DieBieMS is a BMS, dude…

Since when $25 BMS can be adjusted? Can I have a link to one?

More of a argument is that you can get one with 1A balance current for not much. Also can use it to measure capcity/impedance of each cell adn then assemble the pack properly and have no issues with balancing.

@b264 True, I never said RC charger is a good option at all for esk8s. Just don’t cheap on the BMS too much…

$25 is not cheap, you can get a nice Bestech one for about that

This isn’t a shit $7 eBay one

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Give me a link then

I prefer the HCX-D239, but another one is the ever-popular D140 from @thisguyhere

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Well that bestech d140 has overcharge protection up to 4.35V, HOW’S THAT EVEN CALLED PROTECTION??? And even no undervoltage protection at all. It’s typical super low budget penny pinching BMS using multiplied 1S protection circuits…

And then HCX-D239 basically the same crap just has balancing resistors and undervoltage protection.

There were many test showing that 50mV is a lot for lithium batteries, you charge only to 4.15V and triple the battery life, you charge it to 4.25V you get like half of the life. And then your amazing BMS overcharging by 250mV >.<

Also where’s that functionality to change the overvoltage values you mentioned? HOW?? Those are permamently set in the ICs…