Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

[Mich21050]

Bestech is a well known brand around here. They have proven to be very safe and reliable. You have to send them a request to get a price

[Ian-mountainboard]

would you recommend the BMS that @ MysticalDork has

[Mich21050]

I didn’t really see anyone other using it… But if you want a smart bms you could either go with a DieBiems or some other more known Bluetooth bms modules… Just use the search function

DIY 6S to 12S BMS with CAN - DieBieMS

[Andy87]

What @Mich21050 said. You need to sent them a message to get a price. I didn’t have this bms by my own but a lot of people here using this one. Never heard any bad reviews so far.

[Arek]

To me it looks like a 12s1p config…

[MysticalDork]

I haven’t seen anyone else using one for esk8, probably for size reasons. I’ve seen several people using them in ebikes though, where space isn’t at quite as much of a premium.

[kalebludlow]

I thought that VESC6.xx HW was only recommended to 100k erpm @b264 do you know an exact number?

[MysticalDork]

I know the trampa vesc6 (Vedder’s reference hardware) can hit 150K. With 4.xx, the generally accepted safe limit is about 60K. I don’t know if there’s been any testing done on the various 6.xx spinoffs.

[Ian-mountainboard]

€16.05 22% de réduction|10S à 24S Lifepo4 li ion Lipo LTO carte de Protection...

I was thinking of getting the 150A setting with no screen

[b264]

@J_Dizzle

I understand what you are saying, but I have used red loctite on other builds and while it works great, it is a pain in the ass to get off with the blow torch. Is there any way I could just use set screws and a Keyway? Or is loctite a must?

Just use blue loctite on the grub screw. Don’t use red. And I wouldn’t even use blue until you ride it about 100 meters and make sure it’s okay. Don’t end up going for a 10km joyride either to test it, bolts and screws will start falling out

[J_Dizzle]

What size grub screw works?

[b264]

Whatever size fits your motor pulley. It’s likely the same thread as the bolt next to it.

[Mudders]

Sorry I should have been clear, each block is a 6p

[Arek]

Make sure to isolate each block so metal “can” carrying different negatives won’t short together. Because that shrink tubing they put on cells is not enough.

[Mudders]

I will fish paper each P group thanks for the tip

[Arek]

The same insulation paper as these spacers on the top/positive?

[epster]

Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my power supply. I am currently using a Hobbyking 105W power supply (currently used at 3A for 4S Lipo charging). When I was buying it I had saved on the power supply to spend it on other more ‘‘important’’ components like motors and motor mounts.

So now I am looking to upgrade it. I saw the Turnigy Reaktor Pro 240W 16A Power Supply 100~240V AC (US Plug)

Turnigy Reaktor Pro 240W 16A Power Supply 100~240V AC (US Plug)

My charger is Turnigy Reaktor 250W 10A 1-6S Balance Charger

Turnigy Reaktor 250W 10A 1-6S Balance Charger

My question is what you guys think about it and if you think it fits my charger? Or would you suggest a different one?

[Mudders]

I have some sheets of self adhesive fishpaper from nkon.nl

[Pingo03]

Need help for wiring of an antispark with this switch. Is this right?

[murloc992]

Would 12mm belts be enough for a dual 6374 motor setup with 6x2 inch pneumatics?

I am having tolerances way below comfortable between components and I think I’d rather have them a bit more spaced out… ~2mm mount to pulley, ~2mm between motor shaft nubs on the bells.

This “downgrade” in pulley width would allow me quite a lot of space at least between motors, but I don’t know if I’d be snapping belts left right and center…