Dose anyone know if i should bypass a bms for my mountain board. Im using a 10s 5p 30q pack. or should I have a charge and discharge bms. also any bms recommendations would be helpful
I have acctually decided for a chinese board, the Paean Board 450eur with shipment and lots of good reviewsâŚtomorrow i ll buy it
Anyone have the Paean Board? Worth it?
Can I use this motor rated for 6S in 12S ? Overvoltage is usually not that bad for motor but still
Yes I know about its size, donât worry
It depends on the ESC youâre using. With a 12s battery and a full charge youâll hit 105K erpm, which is too fast for 4.xx series vescs. 6.xx hardware can handle it though.
I understand what you are saying, but I have used red loctite on other builds and while it works great, it is a pain in the ass to get off with the blow torch. Is there any way I could just use set screws and a Keyway? Or is loctite a must?
See my earlier comment where I tagged you.
Gotcha didnât scroll up to see your picture. +1 youâll need the multimeter anyway for checking continuity and other sanity checks.
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Dose anyone know if i should bypass a bms for my mountain board. Im using a 10s 5p 30q pack. or should I have a charge and discharge bms. also any bms recommendations would be helpful
Thatâs totally depends on your needs and space. Both ways have pluses and minuses.
I have plenty of space. The pack is going on top of the deck in a waterproof shockproof case
Than get a 80-100a discharge bms. Why not? Whatâs your worries?
would this be suitable?
@Ian-mountainboard I am of the school of thought that the BMS should have full authority, so my setups have always been wired for charge and discharge. Of course, this has the drawbacks that you need a physically large BMS to handle the high current we deal with, and if the BMS decides the battery is in danger or empty, youâll be unable to ride any further.
On the other side of the fence, if you use a charge-only BMS, it can be physically smaller, and in an emergency you can mistreat the cells a little bit more than you normally would to get home. But if youâre habitually inattentive, this can lead to reduced lifespan for your batteries, since the BMS has no way to stop you from doing damage.
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Ihatâs a good point and it does make sense to spend the extra money if it means that my batteries will last longer.
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@Ian-mountainboard I had almost exactly that BMS in my first build, and it worked fine. (I think the fets were different, but everything else looks the same, right down to the yellow wires.) If you have a little extra room and cash,and are looking for some more functionality, I can also recommend this BMS with bluetooth. The VBMS app (android only iirc) is excellent, and allows you to set all the parameters exactly how you need them. I have the 100A version in my electric bike battery, 20s7p 20AH.
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One other downside to consider, what if your vesc can take more than your bms thinks it can? Then youâre limiting yourself. Pros and cons to everything
i know that my vesc has a 150A burst so would it make sense to go with 100A bms? also did you buy the bms with screen display. there are 2 bmsâs that i see under the 100A catagory.
the 100A MOS screen and the 100A MOS no screen
I would get this http://www.bestechpower.com/37v10spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D596.html
Just limit your bat max in the vesc to 45a per vesc max
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I cant seem to find a price anywhere. How has your experience been with this bms?
I got one with display, but after looking at it Iâm not actually planning to use the display in the final bike design. The app gives all the info the display does, and the UI is better. You can cheat the current limits somewhat with those BMSs and set the current limit higher or lower than 100A. I donât remember exacty what the absolute high side is off the top of my head.