m6 and m5 are just different sizes of metric screws. Use this mounting your enclosure as a reference it is a great resource that @psychotiller wrote up
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Is the on the battery charger/balancer or just a display on the board?
everything is well connected, I think I have one more battery for the garbage
Check the voltage of each cell on the balance plug (If your charger doesn’t have a measuring option), most likely one of the cells is deep discharged to the point where the charger says it’s unsafe to charge the battery. You may be able to charge the deep discharged cell (slowly) up again, right to the point where the charger accepts to balance charge the whole battery. Other option would be to disassemble the the battery removing the bad cell and to reuse the left ones but nothing for LiPo noobs basicly.
BTW does the LiPo look puffed or anything?
Yes but very little
Well If you can determine that one of the cells in the battery is puffed up than this specific cell in the pack is basicly dead and/or unsafe to use. If the pack overall is only very slightly puffed and even more recovering over time you can use it but keep an eye on it (don’t drain to much amps from it and do not use it when it’s swelling again).
Either way you should check the voltage on each single cell in the battery pack (over the balance leads) and share them with us, if the whole battery is over discharged it’s most likely not reuseable for esk8 (or any other high loads) and may need to go to your local recycling center.
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Planning to do something with very small motors, and most of them come with a 6mm shaft… It’s gonna be in dual, do I have a high chance of bending the shaft or I should be fine ? (for an easy riding style, 65kg rider)
Oh I missed that you did the IR measurement … wasn’t this a 6s battery? 13mOhm max is fine though, even if a range from 1 - 13 mOhm is a bit strange.
Am I on the right track here guys, 12s 6p 30q, green is braid, orange .15x10mm nickel strip, wires 10awg soft multi strand silicon…
Sorry about my Ms paint skillz!
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Looks good to me…
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Would this be ok for the braid? If so one layer or 2?
Flat tinned copper braid 6 mm2 (10 mm wide x 1 mm thick) 63 Amps – Copper Braid Products https://www.copperbraid.co.uk/product/flat-tinned-copper-braid-6-mm2-10-mm-wide-x-1-mm-thick-63-amps/
1layer is good, shipping might be a little expensive from there though
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I just put it in the cart, you are right!
I’ll hunt some more 
Thanks
…straight to Benjamin and not via Trampa…
FTFY 
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Yes; Two
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Do you do motor detection with or without drivetrain assembled? Like belt and wheel etc
Without 
if it’s a 6s, I do not understand what you mean you could explain me with more sensible terms to please
@Mudders the 6mm / 0.25" tinned braided copper is good for 40A continuous. And for wire,
For wiring vesc batteries etc.
14AWG: 32A continuous, ~65A peak < 10s 12AWG: 41A continuous, ~80A peak < 10s 10AWG: 55A continuous, ~110A peak < 10s 8AWG: 73A continuous, ~150A peak < 10s 6AWG: 101A continuous, ~200A peak < 10s
And for charging and balance leads etc
26AWG: 2.2A continuous 24AWG: 3.5A continuous 22AWG: 7A continuous <-- usually this one 20AWG: 11A continuous 18AWG: 16A continuous 16AWG: 22A continuous
All cables should be silicone insulated and super/fine stranded.
So for a single motor battery rated at 40A max, you can use one braid and 12AWG wire
For a dual motor battery rated at 55A continuous you can use dual 6mm braid and single 10AWG (or dual 14AWG) wire
Of course, it also matter what cells you use and what nickel…
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