Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Iā€™ve got one somewhere. Give me a sec.

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IMG_1225 IMG_1226

Fresh out of the bin and upside down and round the wrong way but hey, canā€™t have it all lol

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Thank youā€¦ you just saved my 11 oā€™clock pm davega project :joy:

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Good option if you are short on space. It will only balance on the charge cycle. This is fine btw. Means you can use a teeny weeny little bms and not a great big discharge monster.

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They are the best projects imo. Few beers and next minute its 2 am

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You will just have to make adaptors for the 3.5 bullets on the focbox

So Iā€™m sure Iā€™m missing something but the question is:

Iā€™ve seen several companies offering antispark switches capable of at least 120A continuous. But all of them use only 12awg wire? Isnā€™t 12awg not capable of handling that amount of current?

Is my battery dead ?

Hi guys, my charge port waterproof cap went off while riding and some water made it in my battery enclosure :slightly_frowning_face: The battery was sealed with heat shrink PVC but you can definitely see thereā€™s an issue here: 46507556_2107589259554914_1503746386238111744_n

Wiped it off, cleaned everything, board worked for a day an now it wonā€™t start again.

  1. I suppose this is dangerous as it could short circuit.
  2. How do I safely check if the battery is fine ? Can I check tension at the xt60 connector ?
  3. Hereā€™s what it looks like without the pvc shrink. I know we canā€™t see much but didnā€™t want to risk anything before knowing if it was safe to rip it appart more than this: Dropbox video

I thereā€™s an issue with this battery, can I rip it appart, clean each cell and reuse them in another pack ? They have about 75-125 cycles Iā€™d say.

In accordance with US electrical codes the max current for circuits utilizing 12 gauge wire is 20 Amps. However, 12 gauge copper wire is capable of handling much higher currents. There is something called fusing current, the current at which a wire will melt. For 12 gauge copper it is about 235 Amps.

Guys. How in the world do I remove the dampas from my trampa springs?

Do I unscrew from both sides of the spring?

I feel like the springs are locked and loaded and will just shoot me right in the eye LMAO

Yes, you need to remove both screws to get them out. Theoretically you can get them out also if you just dismount the top screw and bend the deck over, but thatā€™s not so good and easy. If you make one side after the other all is good. Sure take care but on mine no of the springs ever jumped out. If you removed one side, the second is very easy. You want to drive without dampas or just change to different color?

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Drive without dampas. this thing wont turn :sweat_smile::joy::rofl:

I am building a 2 in 1 AT/107s holypro with 16 inch ultimate trucks.

Than take care and order some spring cups already (the black things on top and down of the spring) because they will break sooner or laterā€¦most likely sooner. You can have a short search in here about that issue.

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Which color dampas you rock at the moment? Did you try to mount them to the inner position? If your turning radius with all that still not good enough you can have a look on those

from @Nowind Here you can see how much small turning radius you will get with them
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I literally just got the deck and trucks today in the post. Couldnā€™t make the left turn from the kitchen to the lounge LMAO :):rofl: dampas are yellow btw Will try taking these dampas out and see how it goes. I know most people go with the carver short trucks but man o man, they look terrible with the bigger AT wheels.

Thanks for the help btw

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Not sure if itā€™s working with the base plate you have. But usually there two positions you can mount your springs. They mounted usually on outer position. If you mount them on inner position (more close to each other) the turning radius will become smaller. With the time the dampas also lose there stiffness and turning will become more easy. Or like I made on the beginning, you can drill some holes in them and with it they become more soft too

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Holypro carve or Holypro 35Ā° MTB deck?

If you ride without bindings remove the dampas but add a bit pre-tension. On my carver I actually have springs only in inner position but itā€™s scary :laughing:, it turns too good. Before I had yellow dampas also in inner spring position, was more controllable. But Iā€™ll switch to elastomere dampers like on my MTB.

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My elastomer dampers on the way :heart_eyes::heart_eyes::heart_eyes: I know off topic, but needed to be said :point_up: :joy:

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Holypro mtb :slight_smile:

My trucks dontā€™t have an inner position. I might do a drill mod but need to go ride this thing outside and get used to it

Niiiiiiiiice :smiling_face_with_three_hearts: Soon you can turn like this

dampers1a-gif

Then just remove the dampas but take care at higher speed because of speed wobbles. I donā€™t know yet how the elastomere dampers feel without bindings.

But only possible with Infinity hanger

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