Hey there lads ! I would like to clarify a doubt that I have ! say i am running a dual set up using a 10s4p config. does this means that each of the motor in theory will get a power of 10s2p, because they are parallel ? I appreciate the help from anyone of you 
I need a wheel pulley for these wheels https://www.ebay.de/itm/ABEC11-Flywheel-Dark-Green-4er-Set-76-mm-81a-Longboardrollen/113891989789?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You will slowly drain your battery, and if you let it go on for long enough, you will irreparably damage your battery.
Because you’re paying for other things in a vesc, like the ability to tweak all the settings, and the safety features like overtemperature protection, and FOC, and and and.
You don’t need to. You can use a $10 XT90-S loop key.
The vesc does not got to sleep, it’s always running. Its idle current draw depends on several factors, including but not limited to the battery voltage, the exact hardware version of the vesc, the exact firmware version it’s running, the exact settings you’ve got in in, and the phase of the moon.
Don’t chance it. I recommend making up a loop key and being done with it. It’s cheap, simple, and robust.
Well, then maybe you see now why people think it’s reasonable to charge $50 for a finished, not-“ugly”, not-“inconvenient”, not-exposed, not-dependent-on-your-soldering-skills antispark switch! What a concept! 
I hate to break it to you, but if you got into the DIY esk8 world to save money, you’ve got another think coming. Either you accept that you cannot place a monetary value on your time and effort, or you spend extra money to have things done by other people so you don’t have to. Things will break, and you will have to fix/replace them. Tools (like a decent soldering iron and related accessories) are required, and they cost money. Skills (like soldering) are required, and those take time to learn. Unless you already have all the tools and skills necessary, DIY is rarely faster or cheaper than buying a premade thing.
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People still use this forum? There is a better one that won’t be offline next week
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Oh, I am far more active on the other one. I just stick my head in here periodically to shepherd poor n00bs across to https://www.forum., where all the cool kids are.
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Yeah I got way more help over on forum.esk8.news
Yes, that is correct.
It’s almost as if it’s a forum by builders, for builders, rather than a megaphone for a certain money-grubbing, underdelivering, insolvent Australian esk8 company or something. 
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Thank you my dude !! I also got clarification from @longhairedboy and Pavel … I knew my knowledge was not wrong… Dealing with a battery supplier that doesn’t have much knowledge with esk8 is tough 
… I’d just build my own pack but I lack the experience and inventories… working on it !
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Thanks for that highly detailed reply! Great stuffs there! Highly appreciated
I do have basic soldering tools and skills, have had enough problems to fix every week.
Still considering if I go on the loop key solution / 50$ anti spark or something else (posted some idea of a 3 position switch in the forum)
Thanks again
https://forum.esk8.news/t/how-to-make-an-xt90s-loopkey-sro/2325
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Yeah, I saw that.
It would work, but your main issue by far will be finding a switch that can handle the 50+ amps we routinely draw from our batteries, in an economical and physically small package - Most that fit the electrical requirements will be physically large, and quite expensive to boot. There’s a reason we as a community have settled on loopkeys: They’re the cheapest, simplest, most robust and reliable solution to a thorny problem. No mosfets to blow, and if you do manage to fry the one resistor, it’s a handful of dollars and a half hour of time to make a whole new one.
And if you do decide to go that route, I have a 3d printer and would be happy to print you out a mounting flange or other small accessories, for the cost of a few grams of filament plus shipping.
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I don’t consider myself a noob, but I really don’t know where else to go for this question. I have a huge electric bike build, using a maytech 200a VESC. The motor can also output 200 amps on 12s continuous. The VESC tool software, however, limits motor current, abs max current, and batt max current to lower values. I found a way to edit these in developer>edit motor settings. When I make edits, however, they do not save properly. Does anybody have suggestions? Am I being descriptive enough? Thank you for your help!
Hi everyone, i have a halo board with a failing motor and bad wheels. Was hoping I could change the motors for none in hub ones with larger wheels but using the same battery and remote but don’t know where to start lol. Thanks in advance.
Best place to start is on the new forum. They are very helpful. This place could go down at any time. The company hosting it has folded.
Hello everyone!
I’m building an electric scooter with
- 24v 350W 12 inch BLDC Wheel
- 2x 12v 9Ah (in series) Lead Acid Batteries
- 4.12 50A VESC
- “Single Way” Throtle (Conected in ADC)
- Nrf51_Vesc
and apply some configs to get to work but i’m worried if i miss some configs, specially on the motor settings, can somebody tell me wich details i have to pay attention? (i attach the configs) https://pastebin.com/jcJ6jQ2J https://pastebin.com/Gmc3HyQ5
Having a Lead Acid Batteries, can i use the regen brake? how can i config the throttle to get a portion to acelerate and the another to brake?
And finally, with the Nrf51_Vesc, wich apps can i use on android 10, the only that i can get to work is the Paid Vesc Tool on Google Play
Thanks in advance for any answer 0_<
I’m not new to this forum, but I bought a new phone without an authenticator app installed and now when I go to log-in it sends a code somewhere into the ether… I created this new log-in but I’d rather access my old one as I have existing projects/relationships that I’ve been enjoying. What authenticator app do I need please anyone? Reset of password doesn’t work as it asks you for the authenticator code again, the loop of madness! Jason didn’t reply either to my direct email. Thanks in advance, Owen a.k.a Wizeartz.
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Go to the new #1 forum and I’ll get your account squared away. This place is dead now.
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I didn’t even know! Thanks Bill.
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Can you run motor detection with belts, wheels off? Does it cause an issue once you apply the drive related stuff and ride the board?
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