A good first try, here’s some tips. Make sure you have a large solder tip since it makes transmitting the heat a little easier for large wire connections. If you melt the plastic, things are getting too hot and you should let it cool before attempting again.
Apply flux to the inside of the XT60 connector pins first
Heat up the pin and add a good bit of solder until the pin is 1/4 to 1/2 full of solder
Tin the wire making sure the solder goes down into the wire
Hold the tinned wire in the pin (with the solder pool) and apply the soldering iron where the pin and wire meet. Continue heating around the connection until the two fuse. More solder may be required. Allow to cool completely before adding the heat shrink.
Just had a bit of a bummer as I was about to go for a ride. Charger plugged into board, my LCD reads 100% charge. Unplugged and it tanks down to 15%. I haven’t opened it up to look yet but figured I’d ask here to see if anyone may know the issue before I have the time to take things apart. Could it be a problem with needing to replace my BMS or possibly just a loose wire somewhere? 12s6p running a unity if that helps at all.
Battery gauges that rely on reading voltage aren’t accurate under changing load conditions. During charge the voltage across the battery will rise, causing the meter to read a higher state of charge. During discharge, the opposite will happen.
This means that if your battery meter is calibrated and accurate under no-load conditions, you can’t expect it to read correctly or accurately under either charge or discharge, only under no load.
@anon64938381 can you do me a favour and make a new thread about my items i am selling on the other forum with a link. I can’t create a post, post links or photos because Jason fucking banned me…
Very long story
Basically The owner of Enertion, Jason,Also knowns as @onloop owns this forum, and when his company started failing to deliver their orders, people started complaining and opening threads on this forum. He mishandled everything and deleted anything that was against him and this created a massive conflict of interest. Luckyly @ longhairedboy has made a new forum where such things are not tolerated and we are now a big family over at forum.
Their company is now a massive failure that owes a lot of debt to their customers
I was riding and noticed the power is only like 60% what I’m used to, I looked back and saw my battery meter was at 100% after half mile when usually it’s already at like 75%, I noticed This connector came loose, I plugged it back in restarted board and it’s still showing 100% battery even after I rode it another 1.5 miles. I check and battery meter solders are still in tact. Any ideas on this? Also should add I have a 3dsevisas anti spark inline too.
that connector goes to the esc, its the standard motor plug. I have two esc’s and they are the torque board they are connected via can bus. The 10s2p battery is from metro boards and the cells and bms are “generic.”
Hey guys pretty new to esk8ing. I built a board with the torqueboard 90 kv DD motors using the vesc6.6 and the 12s4p battery from mboards. (i know not the best place to get stuff) Anyhow after setting everything up I had the max motor current set to 75A which i figured is safe given the 80A limit for the motors. Everything seemed fine when i was going up a pretty decent sized hill and about 3/4 of the way up i lost all power and went flying. Not sure if this is due to low voltage cutoff of the battery or the BMS on the battery pack. Any suggestion would be great, thanks in advance.
