Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

can someone may tell me how to measure the battery 2x lipos in series right? Put + to + and starting down the pins? Sadly not often used a multimeter before. Also whats B0, B1 andso. The pins of the balance wires? Does the first pin of the second balance cable of the the second lipo get B0 again? if it is correct.

To measure voltage of the packs in series, you connect them in series.

Multimeter negative probe goes to battery no. 1 – Battery no. 1 + connects to battery no. 2 – battery no. 2 + connects to the multimeter’s positive probe.

Imho, you might want to learn a few basic things about electrical circuits before you do this kind of stuff, or, ask someone for help and follow their diagrams very closely :smiley:

As for B0 and B1 – those do sound like pins of balance wires, and B0 is usually same voltage as the battery’s negative terminal. (Depends on amount of balance wires VS cell count in the Lipo.) I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking, but pictures would help :slight_smile:

Edit: Seems like @b264 is already helping you in another thread. Cool. :+1:

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Thanks man, yeah people help here thats quite cool! I have learned muuuuch stuff completly mixed up but sometimes basic things are still missing, but that wont stop me haha :smiley:

I knew already what you said but I dont really know where to start at the pins of the balance wires because I have to be sure for the bms its the correct cell, because they are in series I get same. voltages at some but I think. thats ok? :sweat_smile: just need to doublecheck everything and even asking stupid questions just to save money haha

Thanks dude :slight_smile:

You didn’t got a tracking number? You sure your things have been sent than?

Did you order tb218’s? Coz you know they are waiting on new stock already and will be about another 3 weeks…

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Ok guys no see. Its not the problem with the multimeter Iam. measuruning the voltages but I saw several pictures and video because the battery is at the + side I have to connect the first red small wire from the lipo to pin 12 at the bms. But that makes ni sence because 12 has to be 44v.

Here are some pictures how I measured please someone help me Ill pay ice cream for everyone when me meet someday haha.

IMG_20190306_103130

Picuture 1 - Measured starting from the second pin (first pin is 0 because its the same) and thats arround 3.8v. to put my 11 or 12 cable from bms there makes no sense for me but Iam thinking about that “rule” and picutres I saw with the positive side and pin 12 the whole time. Like they say everywhere.

IMG_20190306_103149

Picutre 2 - Voltage raises up

IMG_20190306_103102

Picture 3 - Voltage of last pin arround 22v

IMG_20190306_102621

Picture 4 - First Pin has same voltage like the last one. Than it raises up again to 44v

Where do. I put this bms cables its somehow the other way arround now and two cables have to be skipped somewhere :sob::sob:

The balance wires on lipo batteries always have N+1 wires, with N being the number of cells. For a 6s lipo, that means you have 7 wires - One that goes to negative, (same as the big black wire), one that goes to positive (same as the big red wire) and one between each cell.

Since you have the positive of the first pack connected to the negative of the second pack, then the last pin of pack1 and the first pin of pack2 are also connected together. This is fine, when you are making up your BMS balance pigtail, just use only one of these wires and ignore the other, then keep counting like normal. It makes zero difference which of the two you use or ignore. You will have a total of 13 wires: one negative, one positive, and one in between each cell. On your specific BMS, the first wire (0v, negative) is not used since it’s the same as B-. This leaves the remaining twelve wires (from 3.7 to 44.4 measuring from ground) to go to pins 1 through 12 on your BMS.

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Okay you guys helped me alot. I love you guys all of you haha

Hey everybody! The part i have : -60 sanyo cell 20700b

  • unity -buildkit bmw charge only What i want to do : Make a 12s5p with the bms inside the enclosure

My problem: i dont know what enclosure to choose …i have 23inch X 9 3/4 inch deck , i was looking at the altar wedge from @psychotiller but it look too tight, any suggestions on a good enclosure that will fit my setup? Thanks !

That’s gonna be a tall order. (Literally, Your’re gonna have to stack those cells at least two layers high to fit a pack that big on a deck that small.)

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What do you think guys, Winboard or Ownboard hubs for a cheap 10s build? I have the winboard hubs and they have always performed nicely. Then again I’ve read a lot of good responses on the Ownboard hubs.

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60760104489/detail.html?spm=a277m.product-list.0.0

https://www.ownboard.net/collections/parts-accessories-for-electric-skateboard/products/ownboard-motor-esc-remote-upgrade-waterproof

Anyone have anything to say about the all terrain version of the Ownboard hubs?

I have a set of hubs I was thinking of selling if you’re interested. Brand new looking (maybe 10 miles ridden) with reflashed erpm

What do you think of them?

If I went with Ownboard I was hoping to do the all terrain 105mm hub version. That is unless people have bad things to say about them. I know the skullboard all terrain hubs were shit from what people wrote here.

Did the predator banshee have winboard hubs initially and then switch to ownboard? If so then why? I may be completely wrong about that.

I didn’t follow the history of it at all :man_shrugging: . I believe @bobby rides them and likes them.

I got surfrodz rkp when they were on sale so I won’t be using the hubs/esc/remote anymore.

I have put 0 miles on them, my hummie deck should be here any day and I can try them out when the weather cooperates

Netiher – single motor belt drive

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My only experience with a single belt drive was not good, so I haven’t given it another shot since. Could barely climb a hill.

Then again it was a Marbel and everything they released was complete shit so I probably shouldn’t look into it again.

A solid single drive will definitely climb a hill for you, and you will always have the option of upgrading to a dual drive in the future. Here you can see that a single 6355 at 55 amps handles everything up to a 20+% grade. Also keep in mind that your hill climbing performance is related to your gearing - If you gear for a lower top speed, you can climb hills better.

Don’t judge a book by its cover, single motor sk3 got me up a decent incline at 20mph

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And this was a 10s2p battery

I still have my banshee hubs… sold the esc but its basically a modified ownboard kit

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