47ohm, .750mW, around 4.5x3mm. Would appreciate it as I canât really afford another BMS right now 
You could also solder a through-hole resistor there just to test if it will work or not. Itâs likely the new resistor will get hot also because itâs only a symptom and not a cause. That could allow you to know quickly with an easily-obtainable part whether or not repair will be possible.
Most standard through-hole resistors are 250mW though, youâd need probably a 1W one
Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yageo/RC1218FK-0747RL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvdGkrng054tx7%2F6%2BNA3LAJwRbZnS91%2Bio%3D @beherit
I think this one is actually wider than it is long, and the ones that are the other way are on order. You could get a couple 1206 ones and stack them to get a better power rating.
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If you stack them, the required resistance is no longer 47 ohmsâŚ
Hi. Iâm completely new to the eskate scene. Some questions I had are dual 6374 motors okay for a set up or a bit extreme? And what escs are best for the job. I would love a torquey and powerful board. For esc Iâve looked at this one: http://www.diyeboard.com/upgraded-v21-dual-belt-motor-sine-wave-foc-esc-speed-controller-p-599.html Is this a good example of a esc and something I could make use of? Also I really wanted to use li-on battery instead of lipo but Iâm not sure of the differences between them. Does one give the skateboard more power over the other?
Dual 6374 is like an extreme performance musclecar and are really heavy.
Dual 8080 are excessive extra weight
Dual 6374 are overkill / high performance
Dual 6355 are great
Dual 5065 are good
Single 6384 is good
Single 6374 is good
Single 6355 is adequate
Single 5065 is not adequate
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Thanks for that information. Regarding batteries I want to make a li-ion battery pack but will they offer the same performance as the hobby lipos? I donât want the skateboard to be bottle necked by a battery.
It depends how many cells you use. Li-ion cylindrical cells have a lower power/weight ratio compared to LiPo, but they hold WAY more energy. So youâll need a larger pack to equal the discharge performance of a lipo pack, but youâll also get a far greater range out of the bargain as well.
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Thanks for the response. If I was to go for a dual 6355 or 6374 setup, how would I know how to big to make the li-ion batteries(Samsung 18650?)? For discharge to maximize motors
A 6355 is like 60ish amps so a dual set-up would need to sustain 120A, Iâd you use 30Qs thatâs a 6p battery
@porb @ZachTetra A 6355 is 60ish motor amps, which doesnât translate to battery amps in a 1:1 ratio. You can run fewer battery amps and the vesc will step down the battery voltage, and step up the motor amps. Iâd say a minimum of 30 battery amps per motor is acceptable, 40+ is good.
The only time youâll really notice the difference is with hard acceleration at speed - It wonât affect your top speed, or the initial launch from a standing start. The lower your battery amps, the sooner your acceleration will drop off - Either way, if you punch it from a standstill, the motor will see 60 amps, but itâll drop off faster if you have fewer battery amps. Youâll hit the same top speed (Within reason) but itâll take longer with less battery amps.
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Can u DO this or is it a recipe for disaster!
Its an option but not a good oneâŚyou can get 18650 holders on eBay for hella cheap and solder them together, each cell has a separate tab but you can have them in packs of 4 already and they are reversible (Iâve got a 10s2p about to go on a light cruiser)
The tabs are thin so each cell canât have to many amps but you can carve out the back of the holder and solder 10awg to the contact tab or just use low amp cells and solder to the exterior tab
Itâs not a good longterm solution but its really nice for testing and cheap/quick/dirty buildsâŚand it doesnât fuck up the cells by overheating them
I would not suggest that at all. Unless you are extremely good at soldering, you are going to be putting way too much heat through your cells, which in the end will deplete the life of them.
If you donât want to spot weld, there are better options out there that are tested and will handle the amperage our boards take.
I have a 12s4p hardware kit for the N.E.S.E. kit that Iâm going to sell. Check it out, If you have a 3d printer, its a pretty decent choice.
I ended up learning how to spot weld so never used the NESE hardware.
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If you have been a professional solderer and have had jobs where you solder all day, and youâve been soldering more than 20 years, you MIGHT want to consider that, but probably not even then. Anyone else should not consider that at all.
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Is there a way to get dark mode on this website? Many do and then I go to this super bright website to get blindâŚ
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Yeah I suggested it to mods along with several awesome other discourse features. You can clearly see dark mode wasnât enabled.
Hey guys,
so I got my motor from Torqueboards a couple of days ago. I was super excited to see that they have a new version out that dealt with some problems the older versions had. Big openings where there was no airflow, sturdier and overall just nicer. So 2 days ago I got to the detection of the motor and everything went smooth. Got botch vesc s over canbus connected with a master and slave and both detections in FOC worked. So I got to riding it that day with full excitement. I noticed that I left my backtruck too lose so I got speedwobble. I turned arround and got back home because I forgot my T-tool. Note: there was no rain or debrey on the road. Next day I power my board on and all of sudden one motor cogs and stops. I got to thinking what I did wrong but I am 100% sure that I did nothing wrong in setting it up. I read tons of stuff from the forums so I had to be good on that part. First thought was to check the forums for a similar problem. Nothing. So I thought Since the motor is acting weird (smoke noise ratteling etc.) If i run the detection it should be good to go. So I ran the detection but it just wouldnt spin up and i new something is wrong. Changed vesc s motor wires all that stuff to be 100% sure it the motor. Checked the wires and they are heatshrinked and there is no way that they could come in contact with each other. So then I thought maybe its the sensors. So ran a bldc detection sensorless. And then this happened. https://ufile.io/rt40i
Note: I have no idea how I could share this video so I made a link to a site where i can upload it its called https://uploadfiles.io/. Hope you guys dont mind.
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Just to be sure that there isnât any physical damage to the motor, you can spin it around with your hand manually, right? No sounds or jamming when unpowered, right?
Yup I can :). Thats the weird thing. The motor is completely fine in that way no scratches noises weird smell nothing.