You can probably do it with button tops but itâs not meant for high amps
oh manâŚsometimes it really helps to open your eyes and use the information you already have. we linked you to the calculator the day before already. Did you even use it? Looks like no, because than you should know that you can calculate the charging time there too. I fully understand that everybody need to start at one point and some things can be a bit confusing in the beginning too, but maaaannn⌠With that kind of questions you asked in the last days I highly recommend you to get a pre build board. Please don´t step into DIY, you will hurt yourself, or even worth others!!! You know that DIY means Do It Yourself⌠even if this is not totally true, it means non the less that you should first do your research and try to understand things by your own. To get a basic knowledge via all the threads here is not a big problem. But you need to read and use the search function⌠It´s ok to ask things you don´t understand than, but did you even try to understand them before? Why you ask the same questions again and again. You just ignore answers and you refuse to do your own research. I´m sorry but that´s not how it´s gonna work⌠@erwintol1999
4 Likes
I was just scrolling up to find what I thought was an identical question that followed a few other identical questions that sparked off some negative comments and here we are again.
@balta if you scroll up you will see a link to the thread about batteries that @anon64938381 posted.
Do you guys use anything to protect your receiver? I have the Hoyt remote and the receiver is just a board with no enclosure.
1 Like
Most remote receivers have a plastic box around the PCB, pretty strange that Hoyt havenât done that.
I think the simplest thing you could do is buy a pack of tic-tacs and use that box to protect your receiver from shorting out against other things in your enclosure. Also, I use a bit of glue to make sure the receiver to ESC cable doesnât disconnect. 
5 Likes
Thatâs a really good idea, actually. You could even fill the box with epoxy or foam if you wanted to
4 Likes
Fantastic idea, I was thinking of just using a sliced piece of pool noodle but the tictac box is perfect.
Pulleys for 2x Flipsky 6354 190Kv 15mm wide Dual 4.20 Vesc 10s4p
Is aluminium motor pulley good enough or should i get metal/steel pulleyâs ASAP?
Aluminum motor pulleys work, they just donât last long. You can wear those out in a few thousand miles.
I take that as good enough then.
1 Like
I am trying to interface a proton display (6 pin) with a unity uart port (7 pin). Can anyone help with the pin out for these? Any assistance appreciated.
If I have a dual drive with flipsky 6.6, can I just unplug each side and ride with each motor individually to see if they perform the same? Or somehow I could damage the Fvesc?
Plugged my balance wires plug from a cheap BMS to a proper new BMS, turns out the order was actually reversed in the new BMS. Cue first 470 SMD resistor going red hot and smoking. Running the BMS with the proper balance wire connections has that resistor burning hot with no power output. Is it safe to just replace the 470ohm SMD resistor or do I have to replace the whole board?
BMS here. No visible damage except for the leftmost 470 SMD chip being burnt, other side looks fine.
Itâs safe to replace just that 47 ohm (47 x 10^0) SMD resistor â but itâs likely that problem is not the resistor burning, and thatâs just the symptom of a shorted FET somewhere else.
In general though, using a BMS thatâs mulfunctioned before is not safe
2 Likes
It seems digikey only offers those resistors in non-stock, and mouser doesnât allow sorting through dimensions, so Iâll likely have to go for a new BMS regardless. Thanks for the correction on the rating too, was unaware of that.
47ohm, .750mW, around 4.5x3mm. Would appreciate it as I canât really afford another BMS right now 
You could also solder a through-hole resistor there just to test if it will work or not. Itâs likely the new resistor will get hot also because itâs only a symptom and not a cause. That could allow you to know quickly with an easily-obtainable part whether or not repair will be possible.
Most standard through-hole resistors are 250mW though, youâd need probably a 1W one