How do you guys stop your battery pack from getting destroyed due to undervoltage/over discharge when using shorted BMS? Of course you can set ESC to stop at x voltage of entire pack but what if thereās a weak P section?
If there is a weak parallel you should get it fixed or fix it yourself if you have the skills. By shorted BMS do you mean charge only? Just select that voltage on the vesc so it shuts down before it over discharge.
The thing is even decent pack can get one P section much lower for many reasons. Yeah charge protection only.
Sounds like a classic case of water ingress. Did you hit any puddles?
Check your pack when you first assemble it into your board, both at full charge and at partial to make sure all your P groups are balanced.
Check it again every time you do maintenance on your board, such as changing belts, wheels, cleaning/lubing/inspecting/replacing bearings, etc.
Donāt treat your equipment as a black box, and be proactive in checking for signs of distress before you have a more catastrophic failure.
Since you donāt have a BMS that can stop you from damaging your pack, the burden is on you to keep an eye on it. Thatās the disadvantage of running bypassed - you have to pay more attention.
Get a smart bms. You can look up the individual pack voltage all the time in your app. If you want a under voltage protection of every pack than there is no way around a discharge bms
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Where can I get a kuthaka in the EU? I seem to not be able to find the deck only, I also saw somewhere a site (not for eu) that sells it for 40$ is that also possible in the eu?
Those decks were a very limited edition. A way to get rid of old un sold stock. Might be a problem there getting a new one unless someone has bought a few for resale.
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Which one do you recommend? Looking for 12S 100A. Iāve seen some āsmart BMSā on AliExpress but most have terrible description, no name to Google for help and I bet the app will need permission to everythingā¦ Thanks @MysticalDork for info.
Guys, I got this Tacon 160 Bigfoot courtesy of @Hummie but it came with disassembled shaft and bearing (only one) a 698Z ball bearing made in Indonesia, manufactured by NSK (8mm x 19mm x 6mm); there is another bearing missing which seats inside at the end of the shaft between the shaft and the can. Seems this bearing has a smaller OD than the other 698Z bearing. Did anybody familiar with these motors could tell which type of missing bearing this is?
Whatās the diameter of the bearing seat for the missing bearing?
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I can recommend this one But itās a 60A only bms. So better to get the cheap 20A version and use it as charge only. There plenty of good reviews here and on ES. If you need a 100a plus bms than look here
But I donāt have personal experience with this one.
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Brian, is hard to tell because that bearing seats inside a bearing well at the bottom of the can where the shaft touches (grabs) the can. The ID is the same as the other bearing: 8mm but the question is the OD which is difficult to tellā¦ lets see, Iām opening the motor right nowā¦ OD measure is 16mm !
So is 8mm x 16mm but the bearing thickness is unknown, the well is deeper than the other bearing seat (??) There is a conical ring that protrudes from the canās inside pressing towards the bearing seat (where this missing bearing is positioned) on the stator armature.
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@onloop mentioned the other day his 6355 R-Specs had ZZ bearings (I donāt remember the complete item number) he also confirmed his R-Specs were built in the same chinese factory that manufactured the Tacon motors, so is quite possible his motors and the Tacons share the same bearings, but is not a sure thing (??)
Get the depth and then youāll know what you need
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@Arek I have the second one @Andy87 mentioned, using it for an ebike. Itās very good so far - Havenāt run it yet, but Iāve wired it up and connected it to my phone. The app that they supply is crap, and doesnāt work at all for me. Find the āVBMSā app in the app store (I have it on android, and itās available for apple too I think - not sure) for $6.99, which is totally worth it.
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Nope didnt hit any puddles or splashes of water. I explicitly rode on dry roads because I wanted everything to be tested in ideal conditions.
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As I will be upgrading in a few months to my first pneumatic board, I want to have a spare just in case I pop on a ride :o
Ill be running the 6.5 Urban treads, and I want to have a solid spare, would this wheel do the trick? They are the same measurements but i dont know the first thing when it comes to making sure the tire will mate to the hub correctly
https://www.amazon.com/Wingsmoto-Balancing-Scooter-Unicycle-Airless/dp/B07717MTTD