Ok so i will remove it better. Thx for your info
Do all of the escapes have the R1? i got my singles from the second batch (GB group buy 2).
No, it was before the professionnal production. I have done the same on the 1st back from Stewii.
The 2nd GB come WO the R1 
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Thanks a ton dude. I really appreciate it.
It looks like in the process we revived the thread.
Yes, I have more questions, but I will go easy.
At this point Iām using VESC 4.12 and hall effect throttle on my e-bike and it works great.
Is it possible to set up second throttle to control regen / brake?
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My two ESCapes were from the āoriginalā order. I didnāt make any changes to the ESC and was able to use the USB to computer and power the ESCās to run the motor detection, etc. No problems and all is working perfectly. I guess it is your call as to whether you remove R1 (whatever that is?) or not.
so the usb 5V were enough to run the motor detection? or you mean you had both connected at the same time without issues?
Correct. USB and 12s4p connected at the same time and no issues. I recall reading about this R1 āthingā but I chose to ignore it and had no issues setting things up. In all honesty, I still have absolutely no idea what R1 is.
Could someone fully explain this R1 business? I have 2 original ESCapes and donāt want to destroy things
@ArnhemAnt and @eb1925 if you look somewhere more up in the threat, everything should be explained.
didnĀ“t have had a time to look to all this 880 messagesā¦so I will try to remember it right
but basically itĀ“s like that, the R1 is a resistor which takes the voltage form your USB to power the vesc. The problem is that your USB power supply has a different potential than your battery power supply. Depending on how big this difference it can cause a defect of electric components.
I think it would be the same if you run a Y-Split ppm with the 5V wire connected on each of your ESC.
If somebody can explain it more detailed, please feel free to correct me
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Yes, you can use ADC1 for throttle and ADC2 for brake. Then you have to select it in ADC tab (donāt remember exactly the label).
Found this quote back on the 21st of May, by the man himself.
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Thank you!
It seems that @stewii is not here very often. So iām asking here instead.
I suspect that my two big caps , is the source for my problem with āover currentā fail i get from time to time.
The caps is only soldered on one side, is this okay ? Or could this be my problem ?
Finally , where do i find these āheat padsā to transfer the heat from the fets ?
You might want to resolder caps. You can use thermal conductive tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSL64XG/?coliid=I2W9CXAGHYLB91&colid=15U3DHO46KQSC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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@Silverline - what is the product (black in colour) that you have between the two caps? Have you checked to make sure it isnāt conductive or corrosive? This may not be directly related to your current issue, but it may cause problems later on.
the black thing is hot glue or silicone i assume, and also it should be totally fine if each capacitor lead is properly soldered to the other side of the pcb, a pic maybe, but i donāt think thatās your problems source
Yes itās just silicone
So, I desoldered R1 (000) resistor, hooked everything up and have my 8072 motor running on FOC with NO drama. Thank you all. Next will be test under load.
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Yeah good, let us know about your teste ride 
enjoy & good ride !
ABS_OVER_CURRENT is then motor consumes a shit load but esc didnāt managed to catch up and says that it even when it climbs over max limit 
I am getting this constantly right now with currents like 200A 