I think you just need to give it more throttle then a normal belt drive setup. From riding my own, I noticed they don’t like anything below 5amps of power but once you give it that initial start-up power then you should be fine. I’d imagine it’s the same with the hub motors you have but not sure haven’t tested SteelHubs yet.
From Jacob’s youtube videos, he set his Start Up Boost to 0.090 for his hub motors.
you should repeat that with bldc for a top speed measurement, would be interesting to see the difference! 
good news!. Tomorrow I’ll borrow a camera and I think I’ll be able to show you some awesome mountain climbing. I finally got around to testin the temps of the new steel motors I’ve been riding. Stunningly cool. I started with thermometer in hand riding with evohyax with him on the blue goo version and we went up the local hill to see what temps we’d hit. To see how bad his were. There are different parts on the motor we took measurements but overall it was something like 175 to 115. He has blue goo but the blue goo were not much hotter than the regular purple. later after he left I did laps on the same bump at full speed (same one I do in the videos) and hit max 140f before my battery died. Why is the steel cooler? I don’t know They’re almost the same motor other than the center is steel, the magnets are less strong but with a smaller airgap. On a magnet pull calculator they show almost the same though. Less strong closer vs stronger farther away. My first set of motors that I never successfully rewound after they shorted against the housing also had the same small airgap and I remember them being much cooler. ( I asked them to add a smidgen more airgap for mechanical safety’s sake on the big purple batch) . I have no answers only my trusty thermometer’s results and guesses so far today but tomorrow…who cares and I want to go up a mountain!! And then down!!
Today I was looking at Stary’s hub motor…and with each version they 've moved the motor more to the back, outside the urethane. They started with something like this:
to finally end up with something like this
They didn’t go all the way like CARVON, but enough to make it look good and get rid of the heat.
So maybe you could include some of these changes in the next version:
Looks like he used the chamfer on those orangatang in heat to fit a fan unit. Thats a neat idea. Also, those wheels are 75mm, so I’m nos sure the motor is larger in diameter than hummies.
Heat magically no longer a problem. I’ll post a video tonight of seeing what temps I do going up mount Tamaulipas. If it’s the airgap…or magnet size…don’t know but my thermometer is back to showing lllllooooowwww numbers.
Stary…the planetary gear is cool but ultimately I feel the space they’re filling with gearing would be better utilized with motor. The question of what size motors are needed to perform as hub motors with no gearing…feel they could just do that with the amount of complexity and space they use anyway almost.
Wow, that is awesome!
Well the smaller the air gap means better saturation which means better efficiency and less heat. In RC cars, a correctly geared motor will heat up to a desired temp of 150F. So being around 140 is perfect.
Why would u want to be 150f? Heat Increases electrical resistance, slightly decreases magnet strength and slowly will deteriorate winding enamel. I’ve heard of heating batteries for better performance. Why .1mm airgap change would have huge consequences I don’t know and I almost don’t believe my thermometer numbers. I always equated a motor magnet’s pull force (as shown on j and b magnets calculator) as the revealation of its possible performance. I’m stunned. Happy. won’t put the strain on things the high heat was doing, can go back to 80 duro rubber and not worry about it baking. No more forced air cooling attempts for me
I guess i used the wring word there. Its not a desired temp, but the normal temp for good gearing.
Do you think you’ll still do some higher kv motors in steel? Suitable for a 6s system?
This is all great news. I just got the blue goo ones running yesterday. I’ll write-up a build report in a few days, but so far everything seems awesome. I’m on a 10s3p (space cell) and 80kv motors – qualitatively, these things have plenty of oomph. Washington, DC is pretty flat, so I’m not too worried about things over heating. That said, in my next build, I’d love to try these steel hubs.
@Hummie Is it possible to order slow cure, 80 duro rubber from you?
Yea the 80 duro is on route. I can send u some by end of this week
Sorry people lately I’ve been behind sending to!!! I’m still trying to get this ship sailing and done right.
The steel are all 80 and 90kv. The challenge is selling the last aluminum (same but a couple 200kv) and sell the steel…and have enough money to make the price for the 80 motors I’ll have to buy next time.
Buy the aluminum at the web price and you can later get the steel for 225$.
I’ll be happy to provide my review of the aluminum if that helps get more info out there. I need to do some traveling for the next week, but when I’m back in town I’ll be hitting these motors.
That’s great news on the slow cure 80 duro.
Seriously, thank you for everything you’ve been doing for the community here. I love reading your updates and hearing people’s experiences with your motors.
These baby’s keep on truckin’ 
Are these motors delta wound? So i could terminate them to wye and get 52kv out of the 90’s?
Haha. Everyone videos are of their shoes. One day I’ll finally make a cool first person video with good sound Hope ur riding on FOC. For me even with the vesc on 12s and the bldc program it’s not nearly as great.
These are delta wound. But if u were to change them to wye I think it would be hard as the motor wires are converted to a single strand. And there’s glue. I find reterminating too frustrating. If it was motor strands that came all the way out maybe go through strand by strand and that’d be easy. Going in the motor to take apart the glued connections between windings is ridiculously hard I find.
Damn j wanted to test these up the mountains in the north bay and am on route there now but riding earlier this morning I hit the second low voltage cut off and rode a bit more going it’s max speed of maybe 5mph. I had the limit set to 3.5 a cell. I rode around for not even long and also did a downhill( thinking id be charging) get home and every one of my cells is sucked to 2.7 or less and one at .6! Did riding downhill on the brakes discharge instead of charge?
I’ll be plugging them into other batteries tonight and I’m still thinking a video of me doing something really long and steep will happen. I’ll point the camera up a lot. I’m excited and totally confused and just capable of happiness with the low temps and what I think I’ll be able to do.
Haha i was just playing around with the .gif format, making infinite loops. I have some first person riding footage, while commenting and such. But the audio sucks and i hate talking to the cam haha. I’ll put up some more vids / compilations this week. I also have an old iphone which i’m going to rig up as a speedometer and try and film my max-speed, maybe go full throttle down a hill, but i want my full-face helmet for that first though haha
I went to a weird RC-racetrack’ish kind of thing yesterday, and let a bunch of my friends try my board. All of them loved it haha (they’ll probably be your next customers, lol). Unfortunatly the track is a little to small to go full throttle and have to brake pretty hard for the corners. So i’m looking for a place where i can measure some speed records and try to enprove them.
(only rode around the outside, inner stuff is some heavyduty BMX stuff, so need a bigass trampa board for that)
I just received my new VESCs the other day so I’m working on building my housings and getting the board together. Might be able to get a maiden voyage this week depending on time. I’ll be running 10S 5000mAh and I have monster hills at my house. Super excited to join the Hub Club 
I’m anxious to get mine as well. Wonder what the status is on these hubs.
