Ohhh I like this https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-use-pm/2992/9228?u=skelstar
Can’t tell: is it a mechanical rotary-encoder, or perhaps a hall-effect type?
Ah nevermind. It’s mechanical 
Hi again 
Do you know how many amps that copper strip can handle?
This diagram says the max is 45A and that doesn’t seem like that much for 8p.
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@Skunk https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-use-pm/2992/9240?u=andy87
What’s going on there? 
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Traded baked bean erotica to a mysterious man
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That calculation is made per metre. Can’t be interpreted as such for small strips on a battery. A nickel strip as wide is perfect for 60 amps, copper is almost X4 with better heat dissipation. I didn’t test the exact amps that can deliver…way more than i need is the answer so i will not bother.
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It’s a never used prototype for boosted board remote. It’s neat AF so I’d really like to make one. First I made a raw copy dummy to see how it feels in hand and have an idea if I can fit all electronics. That part could be a rotary encoder or just potentiometer.
It feels weird in a hand and I think if just 3D printed, it may be very fragile.
Also there is space for electronics but then hardly any space for the cell, would need to use a very small one and so battery life would be very short
That’s probably why they didn’t manufacture it…
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Have you looked into curved cells? Might fit in the handle thingy
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It’s this thing, I found it linked from Reddit’s 3d printing sub
It doesn’t beep, but it could with a buzzer shield & little work forking the code on github
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It’s not necessary for the cell to be curved. I think I’ll just make it a bit bigger.
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Its def using potentiometers and not encoders, which means that it’s limited in how far it can rotate.
I have built a remote using rotary encoder and it is pretty useful. Great for constant speed, but does require re-wiring you brain a bit (and a deadman-switch).
I just liked the form-factor of that remote you posted.
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did you use dye on the normal green urethane wheels? or did i miss a special edition orange refly??
It’s got some gears on the side meaning that they probably drive the potentiometer. The reduction ratio can’t be seen fully but this could either help for it to rotate a further distance or shorten the distance
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Those look like regular green Flywheels dyed black
I dig em. They should make those
Slightly smaller cast
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Niiice, its recovery well? right? 
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Yes? It seems so but he said its hard to tell without another MRI. Just gonna keeo pushing it and sees what happens lol.
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Yep I used dye, painted on repeatedly with a cotton tip. Cold. When the wheels are new and the skin is shiny you have to repeat over and over
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Damn your pale af
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