use it in combination with the grub screws. Degrease the surfaces with alcohol and maybe even slightly roughen them with fine sandpaper.
Pretty strong in my experience (if applied correctly)
Can you show exactly how it mounts?
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thanks for your suggestions, I think the surface is plenty rough from the grub screws digging in 
Iāll try it once i get my loctite 648 bottle tomorrow
I donāt have pics handy but here is an earlier pic. Ignore the red circle and look right above it, you can see thereās tons of area around the truck that the mount isnāt contacting. We later remounted it so that at least two sides are contacting on two flat sides of the hangers and sank the grub screws into the other two sides, and thatās lasted a bit longer through hard riding, but in the end it hasnāt worked still.
To be honest I think the simple best solution at this point is the pressfit mount that @MorrisHsu is making now
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try applying the green loctite where the red and black pieces contact. That plus well-torqued bolts should hold it in place.
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FWIW the Torqueboards mounts mount in a similar way (4 grub screws one on each face) and itās been rock solid for me. I brace the flat side opposite of the curved side, however, and dont use that grub screw essentially only using 3 grub screws.
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@bevilacqua is right. I use the same loctite for my DD. itās meant to prevent 2 cylindrical parts to slide on each other. It can fill up gaps up to 0.2mm. After that you will need heat to disassemble it.
We did switch to bracing the truck against 2 flat sides and grub screw on the other 2 sides. The casted hanger is just too soft and the screws dig out the holds over time. We will try the bonding loctite and if that doesnāt hold we will need to wait for the pressfit.
The new Evolve 97mm is great btw. Feels great carving with them and it also put the deck lower.
I know itās old fashioned but does anyone here use shim stock on hanger-mount interfaces? you have the advantage of being able to make a hole through the stock as well to stop it ever moving and it closes gaps like a MF
Thatās not a bad ideaā¦
And yes like I said above we braced it against flat sides and used the opposing grub screw holes, and it did hold better for a while before it didnāt again
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what are the diameter of the screws? TB is using 5m and itās been perfect
They are big. Uses 4mm Hex.
yea thatās 5m as well. I wonder why itās deteriorating for you. I did run into the soft hangar issue like you, but i torqued that thing down HARD and itās been solid since.
is it moving horizontal or vertical?
Vertical 10c
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I would also try filling the gap between the mount and truck with Sugru.
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sounds to me that this is the problem of the screw from the housing having problems holding onto the clamp. Maybe use a selflocking nut. To me it looks like 2 screwthreads have to hold that mount and motors in this vibrationrich enviroment.
What type of grub screws are you using?
actually we just double checked. this time it is the screws bolting the housing to the clamp that got loose. 
but still thanks for all the suggestions.
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Yeah the mounts turned out to be ok for now sorry Morris but still make those pressfit pls 
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i had bad experiences with this little grubscrews all the time on my mounts, lock tide or not. exchange them with general screws of its size (4m or5m think it is in my case) and its a bit more easy to tighten them up from time to time. The gap in between your hanger and your mount is the main problem, but you found out for yourself. would be more stable if you have the chance to wedge it somehow, maybe 3d printed wedge for in between for now.
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I use an m8 hex 12.9 grub screws torqued to 14-18Nm with loctite 242 on my mounts and they have never vibrated loose, under any type of riding. It could possibly be the type/size of grub screw used, but could also possibly be the gap (caused by the inherent inaccuracies of the caliber hanger) that is the cause of the problem.
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