Just looked up pricing on these, looking like ~46c per unit bought individually. The Kemet ceramic caps I’ve been using are 30c per unit, so not a terrible price difference too
Also it looks like a proper solution. Tested it on the road too and no problem so far.
Do you think this could replace both of your caps, or just the ceramic 223?
This would only replace the ceramic cap, so for my use case it doesn’t make too much sense to switch to it. The electrolytic cap is to cover the less than ideal 5V line from the VESC. For how I’m understanding it, my ceramic caps just delay the Arduino startup by enough milliseconds for it not to be an issue at all so the same end result as this IC
EDIT: I just read the data sheet, and if I’m understanding this correctly it might also be able to cover for the lack of an electrolytic cap, but I think you’d just run into momentary cutout issues. The IC sends a reset signal to the microcontroller whenever the supply voltage drops too low, so instead of the arduino freezing, you’d get a reset and feel it as a blip of connection? Totally speculating here, but I think that’s what would happen
FYI I had brown out type issues with a 5V (16MHz) nano when working on my remote and receiver too I went with just using 3.3V (8MHz) variant of the pro mini since the dips in voltage didn’t cause the brown out resets I was seeing with the 5V nano powered off the BEC from the VESC
Bonus with the 3.3V ones you can power them off a 1S lipo (in the remote without boost) they can work reliably down to the cut off voltage on 1S lipos that have built in cut off circuitry.
In case of a brownout I think mcp130 will reset the arduino but that’s why I have I have a big ass 1000uf cap on 5v line to prevent that. So far no issues with hard acceleration braking etc just smooth as a butter
@Zyb Nice addition with the MCP130, I didn’t know such chips existed
@willumpie82 Weird that your VESC didn’t like the standard 1000-2000 PPM signal. I am curious of how you implemented the blinking battery when charging - did you add another wire to monitor if a charger is connected?
For the receiver, should I take 5V from the VESC through UART or PWM? Does it matter?
pwm just makes it easier… same 3 wires
I’ve seen some people use a BEC. Do you think it’s necessary? The PWM can supply up to 1 amp, and the receiver will never come close to pulling that. I guess the only advantage is no noise from the VESC, which shouldn’t be a problem if thanks to SolidGeek’s recommendation to solder the capacitors on the Vin for the Nano.
You need a HUGE BEC to step down from 10/12S to 5V…
I just use an LC filter and a large cap to filter the noise in the 5V line…
seems like i blew 3 oleds now… Did anyone else had problems with 5v boost converter? Mine is getting up to 5.85V and this is like third one I soldered on
Is there a trick to exporting the gerber file on EasyEDA? I tried to open your design in the Editor, then clicked ‘convert to PCB’. But it gives ‘cant find the package’ errors. Is there an easier way to export the Gerber that I’m not aware of?
I’ve made I think 8 remotes now and haven’t blown a single OLED yet. I use the one with the red PCB recommended by solidgeek
EDIT. I meant the red boost converters
solidgeek’s spreadsheet recommends this one, w/ a blue PCB: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-SAMIORE-ROBOT-0-91-inch-OLED-module-0-91-white-OLED-128X32-OLED-LCD-LED/32672229793.html
Did he post updated recommendations somewhere in this thread?
Awesome, thanks @solidgeek.
Any chance of the easyeda for the stand alone ATmega chip?
Check my edit. I meant the boost converter
I connected the oled and hall to the 3v3 rail of my Arduino. Maybe not all oleds are 5v capable?
Well I only used EasyEDA to make the schematics, most parts doesn’t have a footprint. So you cannot simply export the gerber files The receiver PCB I posted earlier is made in Altium Designer - and is more of a prototype to test the ATmega32u4 instead of the standard 328p