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Simple 3D-printed NRF remote - Arduino controlled



I’ll check how many I have left tomorrow. I should have spares leftover.

@ervinelin I KNOW RIGHT. Springs take FOREVER to arrive for some reason. I ran into the same issue earlier this year with my first round of parts


@solidgeek I don’t see an on/off switch on your component spreadsheet. Is this just because each of us can choose our own, or is the spacing picky about what we use?


It’s not present but pick it up one with 3 pins and it’s fine. I bought this one… They should be ok

5 Pcs 50V 0.5A 3 Pin 2 Position On/OFF 1P2T SPDT Slide Switch 3 Pin
http://s.aliexpress.com/Y3MRrMZv?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard


Guys I ordered everything, at least I hope and by the different tutorial it’s clear for the remote how to build it, but not for the receiver. At least for me. Do you know whethere there is a pleasant tutorial too? I only found the schematic on @solidgeek website. I understtod that the receiver is componsed by an arduino nano + a NRF module connected basically like the remote nad the power, GND and PPM are taken from the sarvo cable, while the TX adn RX from the UART port. The part I understood less is the power filter. SO basically from the 5v of the servo i need to place the power filter in betwwen the VESC and the Arduino. The same of course for the GND. Then which capacitors should I use it? I bought this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-JMT-L-C-Power-Filter-1A-RTF-LC-FILTER-1-4S-LC-Module-Lllustrated-Eliminate/32841771400.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.51554c4dLBIjh2. Is it itself enough or I need additonal capacitors? Thx a lot…looking forward to build it.


I know. Solidgeek’s site kind of falls apart during the receiver section. I don’t think he has finished it yet. However SeeTheBridges should release his part 4 video soon which should cover it all. I just received his finished Firefly remote in the mail yesterday and took some pictures of the insides of the receiver to break it down a bit, since I’m building another one myself


YEs I saw his video really nice. I am waitng for the last part too. Well at mean time if you can upload some pictures it would be awesome!


needing to reset issue is quite a headache. LC filter and low ESR caps were both recommended in this thread i applied both of them but it didnt help with the issue. everytime i power on my vesc i had the issue until you make a cap modification on reset-gnd pins. another good implementation will be 1000uf on 5V line for brownouts and around 10uf to 3.3v is recommended for the nrf module. tho its better to use 100uf, 10uf and 100nf in parallel. you can make your own pcb to make the whole thing more robust and you dont have to use cables at all except for the mandatory servo and tx rx leads. this my take on what i talked about. it is already rock solid as it is and you can heat shrink the whole thing. you can see the lc filter is there on servo cable. the big cap is low ESR 1000uf one rest is 100uf, 10uf and 100nf
transmitter side also made with pcb. again less cables less hassle.


Really nice!
So let me understand. Is someone actually using this remote up to know or it still has bugs that make it unreliable? Thx


there has been quite a bit issues at least i had. but the latest version is rock solid at the moment. worst was the issue with the signal for me and solved with the chip in the picture. then there was a reset issue and thats solved aswell with a cap tho im trying a mcp130 chip now you can see theres a place for it on the pcb, gonna try it to replace cap solution see if it works. @ervinelin had brownout issue and someone recommended 1000uf cap which is a thing in RC universe and thats solved too. no more problems so far.


Hey @solidgeek any chance of the easyeda for this?


I see. Maybe I am talking only for me but I read the all thread and it’s too long and of course full of “I try it but it didn’t work at the end” that makes it really complicate choose the right way to build it correctly. I saw the video tutorial and the description ecc but, for instance, I do not know if they still correct anymore. Do you guys think would be possible that someone with the competence make a to do list with everything well explained? Of course he can refeer to the parts that are still correct but I think it’s important to make it clear. Including the software part, since it’s full of updates. For who like me started to follow this project later it’s difficult to keep up to date. Just my opinion, if I am the only one who think that, then nevermind.
PS: just to be sure I bought stuffs for 3 remotes :sunglasses:


My guide is still up to date. I finished filming the receiver building stuff last week, I’m just trying to finish shipping my batch 1 remotes and do a couple other behind the scenes things before I get to editing it all together. Sorry about that! :see_no_evil:

The software has seen updates but it’s still basically the same principle. The dev branch is pretty much perfect right now.


That sounds good! I watch your video and I see a lot of effort also in editing. I can confirm that they are pretty good! Thanks for your contribution, really appreciated!


Here’s what my Firefly receiver from @SeeTheBridges looks like. Case with PPM and UART cables coming out:

Inside there are just two components (Nano and NRF). No IC filter. He has added two caps. A small yellow 0.022μF (223) cap on the end bridging the GND and RESET pins and a large black A1722 (can’t tell what it is? It’s glued down) cap soldered between the 5V and GND pins.

Pretty straightforward


Ok that’s feasible. I’m case the power filter is needed that is not difficult to add it. So I see a UART cable only for RX and TX and a servo cable for PPM, 5v and GRD. Did you already tried it out? Thx man you gave me hope :laughing:


I haven’t tried it out on the road. Just bench tested. It doesn’t fit in my current build, but I’ll be putting it into my next one, once I get my Spud from jlabs.


Great man! Welcome in the Spud family.


for those who wants to fix the reset issue with a different approach, mcp130 chip works! i just received it today and soldered it to the pcb and problem vanished.


Is it still possible to use the mcp130 without the PCB approach (i.e. if we’re going old school w/ just a nano and nrf24)? I’m not as familiar w/ the pinouts on the PCB. What would we bridge w/ the mcp130?


Yea you can get to92 package of the same chip it’s much easier to deal with than this smd component. You need to check the datasheet but it has 3 legs one goes to voltage source to watch over in our case it’s 5v second one goes to ground and third leg goes to reset pin