Yeah. I changed both of mine to 350. And as for getting the receiver to spit out to serial monitor, just uncomment the “#define debug” at the top of the the code. EDIT: Just kidding. the receiver doesn’t have any debug code. thats only on the transmitter
Here is his latest update v2
Go on setting and set your minimum; center; max throttle. There you will see your throttle position dedication.
With this v2. He added the reset pin and and LED pin to the receiver between pin 4 and 6.
I use the latest library version VESC 6 from
If you get error (SERIALIO) or cannot get a read from VESC v4.10 you need to update this to your receiver file
#define SERIALIO Serial void setup(){ SetSerialPort(&SERIALIO); SERIALIO.begin(115200);
For folks with Arduino Nano V3 with VESC 4.10 >
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But the problem is that if you dont change the variables in the code your self you wont be able to change anything in the settings of the remote. Solidgeek said that he would fix this in the next update.
thanks will give it a go
Also someone please confirm this.
By default analog input to PPM from pin 5 to VESC is between 0 - 255 min/max
When I have tested on VESC Tools log *digitally. The input from Receiver to VESC is cut off when a full throttle and full break applied.
If I have low the analog input down to between 45-200 min/max. There is no cut off at all.
VESC V4.10 v3.3 Torqureboard Arduino Nano V3
Partial success!
Internal wiring quite nicely routed compared to original version. OLED display position is very ergonomic now… just one glance down and you can read it clearly Deadman’s switch is right under the middle finger. Hold the remote and it activates. I also adjusted the code so this only limits thorttle not brakes, realised after my first ride that I want brakes to be available all the time regardless of Deadman switch position… Good for those panicked moments!
First test ride was not good, several small issues one of which being the remote needs several hard resets to fire up, I suspect the capacitor is problematic. Will try another cap.
Also my receiver for some reason cuts out when the board is jolted… Very risky… Suspect it’s a loose connector somewhere…
Can’t wait to upgrade to @solidgeek new firmware
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I want this. Good job dude!
looks great man.
hopefully someone can sell me a complete soon!!
For me I had to do two things, the first was to calibrate the remote. So you go in and adjust the midpoint as well as the ends based on the serial output.
After this I had to adjust the PPM limits within the VESC software (using older version)
Doesn’t look pretty but it looks operational
Last night I left it for charging and after that when I tried to turn it on it was like dead no lights or anything. I checked the booster it had voltage so up until arduino everything was fine. Then I unplugged the usb(I power the arduino thru it’s usb socket) and tried another source of power again nothing. Then assembled it the way it was and it started to work again. Has anyone encountered this situation?
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So I managed to resolve some problems, my remote now powers on as per normal after I removed the 220uF cap.
However, somewhere along the way I am no longer receiving telemetry data. I’ve tried using an older rx and remote and even swapping to another deck.
I checked baudrates, tx, rx pins, everything I could think of but I just cannot seem to get telemetry data back again…
Totally bummed… any ideas?
This sounds like a Bad Wire Connection after the power switch…
Please check if the 5v pin of the Arduino measures 5v after turning your remote on in its current state.
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Will do thanks, it works ok for now I ll measure 5v output if it fails again. In the meantime wiring my receiver and adding this logic level converter to Tx/rx channels. I dunno if it’s going to work tho.
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Did you upload a new version to the receiver? reset your on receiver EEPROM see that will do if not then you might have the same problem I had earlier.
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Just finished the receiver. Is there any way to check if it’s working or not without connecting it to the vesc? When I power up the transmitter and the receiver, wireless icon on the screen becomes solid. Is that a good indication that there’s connection?
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Havent finished mine yet, but im assuming that thats a good sign. I would say it is paired when it becomes solid.
I’ve got at question to some code geniuses what should i change if i need to different remotes for 2 boards. I would assume you need to different “addresses” or something.
I am thinking about ordering a bunch off stuff from Taobao, what AWG wire have people used?
thanks for the input
@moon my transmitter battery came with some cheap 30awg wires. if the required current can flow from those cables i would assume 30 awg silicone wires are ok. i used them for signals and some 26 awg for power but i dont think 26 is necessary tho im not expert just my opinion.
@Zyb yes, if it’s not connected it’ll be flashing.
@Migro You’d want to edit the pipe ID in both the receiver code and the transmitter code. You can generate a valid new pipe id on this website (it has to be hexadecimal). On that site, enter base: 16, length: 10 and amount: 1. Then you just need to add 0x in front and LL at the back.
(So if the site gives you 6188F15ED0 you want to add 0x in front and LL at the back so it becomes 0x6188F15ED0LL)
Edit: I’m also maybe thinking of writing some code to auto pair on first boot. (And then maybe multiple boards in the config menu :D)
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Amazing just what i needed
And thanks for the indepth explanation.
The autor pair feature actually sounds quite cool