OK we can arrange an order later. Yes the hubs come with.
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Hey man can I join the GB?
Hi! We can try. I will add you to the list and ask to the factory. I will add you in the group pm so you can follow.
Did you weigh them? I wonder how heavy they are 
No I didn’t, but I felt them similar to the DIYeboard one. The all box was weight at 3Kg more or less so I would say at least 1Kg each.
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How to Install the MAD hubs
Hubs require a Paris Style truck or whatever truck with a similar end hanger shape. The collar takes the last 2cm of the hanger. For this guide I used Paris clone truck 205mm model, but I advise to get the 150mm model since the hubs will add 3cm on each side and therefore you can pair it with a front 180mm to get the same width between front and rear trucks. Other option would be 180mm rear and 205mm front for 295mm or 195 front for 285mm.
The hubs come without Loctite, or at least mine was like that. Which is good because I was going to add it anyway just to be sure.
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First thing try to mount the motor to the truck. In my case the hanger was slightly wider (half mm) so I proceed with grind it down a bit. Before do that you will notice that the motor phase wires and the hall sensors run in the middle of the collar which goes in contact with the hanger. I didn’t like the idea of having the truck applying pressure on them so I started with making on side of the hanger flat. Remember that you will need the last 2cm only. I opted to mount the motor with the wires facing the board, so I made the hanger flat at the bottom. Make sure you decide how to mount them before start. I suggest to proceed gradually and test it now and then. Once you think the motor wires have enough space, then check whether the collar already fits the hanger. In my case It didn’t so I proceed with removing a bit of diameter. Also here, better to do it in more steps in order to get a really tight fit.
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Once the motor slides on the hanger you can now proceed with making the holes on it. The motor comes with a M4 x 10-12mm screw which is too long. You will need 2 M4x6-8mm each motor. 6mm if you don’t use the lock washer (totally optional, don’t think is needed). I used a column drilling machine for the holes, to be sure I make them straight. You need to drill 5mm deep in the hanger, just above the axle, on both of the side. First install the motor without screw. When you get a position that you like, with the motor wires at the level of the flat part, use something to mark the hanger with the position of the first hole (small screw, needle ecc…). I then removed the hanger from the base plate because helped me for drilling the holes. For the drill tip I ran some test and 3.8mm gives really tight fit, that the m4 screw makes a bit of thread inside the hole. 3.9mm won’t make the thread but still tight fit, I used 3.9mm but next time I will use 3.8mm. Set your drill and make sure you are going to drill in the center of the collar hole, when you are sure remove the motor and make the hole (5mm not more!). Probably you know but you need to drill at low speed for metal, if you go too fast it will just heat up and breaks the tip.
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Once the first hole is done install the motor and place the screw. Now you can mark the second hole from the other side and repeat the previous step.
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One side is done you can move to the other.
- Once you have done with the 4 holes, you can now paint the hanger and in my case also the screws
Totally optional of course.
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At the mean time you can apply Loctite on each screws. For the motor CAN screws remove it one at the time, apply Loctite and put it back, I screwed half turn more than the limit. Repeat this passage for each screws following a star alternating pattern.
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For the front screws you are gonna get the new hub model with different ring, but the principle is the same. Here do not tight too much and pay attention to don’t get Loctite inside the CAN. The screws are rather long and if you go too dip you will hit the stator.
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Now mount the motors on the hanger ( I added Kapton tape between the motor wires and the hanger) and apply Loctite to the collar screws and that’s it!
- The motor are ready. Next step depends what you use as connector and if you want to use them sensored.
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- If you want to use them sensored then you need to replace the JST 6 pins ZH with a PH. The order is the one shown in the picture. Where red is 5V, black is GND and the rest doesn’t matter. Just remember to skip the temperature pin since the motors don’t have the temp sensor. You can also buy a ZH to PH adapter, but to me it’s better to replace it.
- For the phase wires make them compatible with your VESC. I have 5.5mm on mine so I replace the 4mm connectors with 5.5mm. DONE!
Sorry if I explained to much, also obvious steps, but I wanted to be sure to cover all the possible tricky parts. If you have questions, just ask 
. I made the guide so that everyone can do it by yourself (DIY), but in case someone wants me to do it I can offer a “Plug and Play” package at 35 euro for dual set including:
- Install the motors on the hubs as describes (grind, paint, Loctite, hardware)
- Make the hubs VESC friendly (bullet, JST connectors)
Only VESC friendly option, would be hardware cost + 4 Euro for soldering job (total for both the hubs).
Differently who needs hardware like JST, bullet connectors I have some (for dual set):
- Bullet connectors (6 units male/female) 6 euro.
- JST 6 pins + wires (2 units) 2 euro.
I hope it helps! Ciao ciao
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is that enclosure you have on the eboosted one? Is it the SS or the DS?
I will take it as a compliment! No I made it with fiber glass eboosted enclosure are way better than mine. Now I know what I have to do, the next one will be better
what an artist haha
whats the height? Im trying to imagine how my build is going to look
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Check my Avenger build log. You can even download my enclosure from thingiverse and use it as mold. Anyhow I have 5cm from ground in the lowest point of the enclosure. I could make it smaller but I used a big bms at the time, plus was my first enclosure and I was scared that could fit everything. The Spud is perfect for me but it’s short so not that much space underneath. When someone will make the spud with a kicktail then is the perfect commuter deck.
The ones that come with the Paris truck clone come installed or we need to do the whole procedure?
This looks good for us https://www.ebay.com/itm/Paris-style-7-trucks-trucks-turning-service-for-electric-longboard-skateboard/322544619727?hash=item4b192850cf:m:mjDWqt3IHG7rizUboRW-qng
The holes is the way I used to mount them. They don’t come with. Originally just the screw keep them installed on the hanger but I won’t trust with out the holes.
Good catch! The only think I advice to use a 150mm one to have the same width front and rear.
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Allright I guess I will be requiring your services for that and the connectors
Sure no problem
Hey,
Can you please elaborate on mounting these on regular 150mm Paris v2 trucks ? On your pic it seems to eat a good 45mm from the side (your first pic is a 200mm clone hanger right?).
I’m trying to determine if I can use them with mines and if it can be straightforward mount (just drill holes).
Does it necessarily adds 3cm on each side ?
Edit : BTW how are the hubs holding up?
Hi! Sure. I will paste a post from the GB pm. The motors we ordered come with 180mm clone paris truck (picture below) and you can see the total length. You can mount them on 150mm Paris truck , no problem they will be 270mm instead of 300mm as for 180mm hanger. The hub collar takes 21mm of the hanger , but you have noticed that they come with a little axle extension to secure them from the other side. That’s why they are wider than same truck with normal wheels. Below you find how to pair them in front.
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Definetely they come with the 180mm hanger. And they actually measure 301mm. My front with 205mm hanger reaches 295mm. So with a 150mm back you should get 271mm total. So front 180mm is actually the same 270mm. With 195 is gonna be 285mm front. I think now it’s correct, please double check because it was a long day"
Hubs are running strong. I am now getting also the 75Kv version since I broke the BMS and now after ship out all the motors I will make a 12s battery with the 75Kv. Power! 
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Ok thank you for the infos is it still possible to order a pair without the clone trucks?
Actually yes since one guy joined at the end of the GB and I gave him my 75Kv pair. So I order another one but he got in the next batch. They said that I can add extra set but I have to tell them asap because they have to make it. Since is only one set extra the price would be 10 euro more for motor so 190 Euro for the dual set. If someone else wants to join then the price can drop a bit. 190 is already way less than the retail price but we already order some sets so now we have special price I believe. Let me know. Ah it’s gonna be ship the 7th of October. That what they said for my set.
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