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Surprising qc issues on a million dollar car
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Care to share? I just hit the buy button on one and its on the way 
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Sure thing.
When you are building the machine, make sure the frame is square, sometimes during shipping the frame is slightly warped and you just need to loosen screws and re-square the machine. otherwise your prints will end up warped.
The extruder bowden couplings can be absolute crap. so when the tube is inserted, if oyu can wiggle the tube in the housing by a couple mm, it means you need to rebuy those parts with better quality ones. otherwise your retractions are going to end up like shit, but it can also give oozing inside the nozzle which would cause blockages.
the hotend itself is REALLY small. there is barely any heatsink surface area for heat to dissipate, and they have 2 bolts holding the heater block to the heatsink, which obviously causes excessive heat creep. but also causes the hot end to have slower heat up times.
the nozzles are actually pretty decent, cant go wrong with what they have but I wouldnât recommend going up a size at any point as the heater-block cant cope with more than a 0.4mm nozzle
Sometimes the bearing wheels are damaged from factory, if you push the carriages by hand and feel bumps every now and again, then youll need to replace the damaged wheels as that will cause artefacts.
the filament intake into the bowden extruder needs a printed feed helper. otherwise filament tends to get trapped against the lead screw and the extruder body, causing undue strain and wear for the motor.
the fan on the control box is controlled with the same controller that the part cooling fan is, so if you turn your part cooling fan off, youve also turned off your main board fan which can lead to overheating and fires.
when assembling the lead screw, sometimes due to manufacturer error, the bracket is slightly too close to the frame, and this can cause the lead screw to bind up while the z axis is moving, this is fixed by adding a couple pieces of paper behind the bracket to push it outwards.
I recommend getting a micro sd card to sd card adaptor otherwise youâll need the print tethered to your pc which is not optimal.
The bed it comes with is a 4 screw levelling bed. I highly recommend removing one of the levelling screws as 4 screws causes bed warping, while 3 screws does not. (insert speech about a flat plane only needs 3 axis to be leveled and a 4th causes the bed to bend in half across the 3 axis)
I can recommend getting a 2mm thick PEI sheet and use that as your bed material. as PEI is superior to their fake buildtak adhesive plate (which you would need to cut a screw out of to remove anyway for the axis repair)
And I can recommend using 5mm jerk with 800mm acceleration values, as the stock values are quite aggressive.
EVEN with all the above mentioned, the printer is still amazing quality and you wont be disappointed either way.
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Where should I purchase one from? Amazon seems to have inflated pricing for these.
This is precisely whatâs needs to be done. There is a really good Facebook group, where people will answer any ender 3 related assembly or print questions that you might have.
Since we are diyers, itâs the perfect printer for us, especially if you donât have a lot of surplus funds for a printer. When configured correctly, it will give you prints like a $25,000 stratasys printer(We have one at work)
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After researching, I purchased an Ender 3 pro from the Creality Direct ebay store. Very glad I did.
Where I bought: https://www.ebay.com/str/Creality-3D-Direct Shipped in four days.
Also a sick printer, ive used the normal ender 3 (Not a massive difference other then PSU and electronics are flipped) Prints sick quality once dialed in.