Out of curiosity, would SLA printers be practical for printing esk8 parts? I’m nit familiar with resin properties as compared to the filaments widely in use for FDM
I recently found out about the new Prusa SL1 printer for fairly cheap at least for an sla printer.
@Jmding I can get upto 70mm/s with PETG, but I wouldn’t print nylon as I haven’t actually tried it. The trick is to go slow on the first layers, and on the outside. 10mm/s first layer, 30mm/s outer layers.
@Wraith SLA / DLP printers are fantastic and definitely can produce parts for the .esk8 industry, DLP/DLPS Tends to use similar resins that might be good, but you also dont have the full choice of resins that SLA has, which definitely have options that would out perform even some metal pieces.
Well, I think it went well for my first try.
First I want to print some more complex models included with the printer in g-code form. That way I will make sure everything is properly tuned and adjusted in the printer. Then I will continue with various other stuff in PLA then start printing printer parts in petg as well as some wheel pulleys. The nylon filament will stay sealed until I am comfortable with the printer.
Things are looking good. 
And here is the first eskate related print (in PLA so not for actual use), test fitting was perfect.
What printer did you go with.
Prusa i3 Mk3 with powder coated textured bed.
Definitely get the Ender 3 from Creality. It’s an amazing printer with a decent build size at a jaw dropping price ($200).
You absolutely won’t regret it. I own 4 ender 3s for a side business and they run 24/7. Haven’t had an issue yet.
Really.ender 3 is that good? I was thinking of getting a CR-10s but I don’t think I need the print volume I do like the print quality.
Its good, and its great value, but its definitely not perfect, and does need lots of after printed/after market parts to really make it realiable and safe.
The ender 3 and CR-10 both have identical print quality, just different build volumes. They use the same extruder, hotend, motor drivers, carriage, fans, and more.
Maybe I’ll hit you up for some pointers might end up getting one soon.
Feel free to. For the sub 6 figure market I have some words of wisdom 
past that I have many catalogues and telephone numbers.
I would say the Ender 3 will have a better print quality vs the cr10, as the bed is 2/3 the weight. You will notice this especially when printing and accellerating fast.
I bought an Ender 3 yesterday. Got it for $179 from gearbest with free shipping to USA 
My next printer is going to be anycubic chiron…
I have the Chiron for a couple weeks
Really happy with it, a few minor qc issues but I was also early adopter.
it’s reliable, good extruder, dual z enstop, full metal frame, and the ultrabase buildplate is very good for adhesion
Nice to hear
Yeah, regarding those QC issues… I just wait for the next batch.
How is the auto leveling function working ?
agree, next batch probably all problems are solved.
to be honest, it’s better than manual leveling. But it’s still semi manual operation since they also released the marlin firmware i’m need to find some spare time for installing bltouch.
I also changed all the cooling fans for silent ones and installed tmc stepper drivers, octopi server, psu control & smoke detector