He is just one person doing all this so I am giving him a ton of slack. It seems he messed up with the last antispark push to start and is working on a new version that works for all of us.
If you can’t wait I suggest you make yourself a loop key or do the chargeback or better ask for a refund because I am convinced he is good for all orders. He just needs to correct the mistake which seems to take time.
I guess you can order the fatboy antispark which I believe has roll to start too.
Oh by the way roll to start is nice but you should be aware that it slowly drains the battery.
I’m not really sure but I think it was almost a 1 volt drop after not using it for a week.
I’ll let you know Sunday how much it has dropped for sure.
It was fully charged to 50.4 volts on Sunday last week and today Sunday they measured 49.6 and 49.7 volts. So not quite a 1 volt drop but 0.7 volts in one week from a fully charged battery in 12s6p configuration.
Hi @Martinsp, here is my situation. I also send you a PM (Header is “PTS v7 01/19 - Dude”) with my postal address.
Setup:
12s-LiPo, no BMS, a MAC eBike Hub motor (5:1 planetary geared, freewheel, 1600 rpm (motor)/320rpm (wheel) at 48V, 16 pair pole, http://www.macmotortech.com/ebike-hub-motor.html). VESC6 with an ebike throttle connected to the ADC pins of the VESC used in ADC mode).
Commissioning: I made it to tune the setting point where the VESC goes OFF when I slowly turn the potentiometer. Sometimes, even at this point, I was not able to store the configuration by pressing the switch button several seconds. I had to turn the potentiometer a quarter or half turn further to get the green LED blinking.
With this configuration I am able to turn ON the auto switch by turning the wheel but the switch does not stay ON when I start driving. If I pull the throttle (using ADC mode of the VESC) the wheel starts spinning for one second or less and then stops - not enough power transmitted to the wheel, VESC goes kind of OFF (blue LED is on but no power throughput). After pulling the throttle several times more, the auto switch bricks so that I even cannot turn it OFF or ON using the LED switch. Last exit is disconnecting the battery.
@Martinsp if you need further information please let me know!
From my understanding the switch itself draws some current even when it is off. I raised this issue some time ago in the forum and no one seemed to think that it’s a critical issue…
I had one 10S2P pack drain to zero from just leaving it unattended for a few weeks. Have since swapped to a loopkey on that deck.
Note that the older style antispark did not have this issue… Something about having some control circuitry onboard which causes the current draw.
Depending on the design of the board it is possible to get the draw down to uA, effectively nothing. A single cell could power it for years. Did someone test the current drawn by this switch?
I think I had friends who checked. It’s next to nothing on the unity.
And yes the draw on these newer push to start antisparks is not insignificant. The argument by some manufacturers was that there is no way to do it without some active circuitry. Some users claimed you should always keep your board juiced up ready to go. Others say the BMS should kick in to prevent over drawing the pack.
IMO, this should have been information given upfront. That the switch does draw current even when turned off. Would have saved my pack from being drawn to zero.
I’d do it anyways and take my losses.