And it works again… no idea
1 Like
Hey dude would you mind replying to my pm now then? 
Thought I was all caught up with replies, sorry. Im on it
1 Like
Looks like my order shipped. I noticed it says “Carrier International post (tracked)” but doesn’t give a tracking number. How are we supposed to track it @Martinsp? Thanks again.
Hi,
thank you for letting me know. Seems like the “shipped” which means that the order is packed and a pickup is scheduled got to the customer but the message I sent separately once I received tracking did not go through. I just fixed it so I will resend the messages.
Thank you again, Martin.
2 Likes
Hi,
not sure why the other thread about power consumption when the switch (any antispark) is OFF was closed but here are the measurements I promised
Just a quick measurement nothing fancy. The input voltage was 56V and the current consumption was 2mA which is 0.112W. I consider this pretty low, example: 10S 10Ah battery (420Wh) would be drained in 3750 hours which is around 156 days so almost half a year of the battery sitting.
You may consider this somewhat quick, the reason why I personally dont think so is that I can not imagine having a complete board (battery, switch and something on the output VESC etc…) sitting for half a year without me taking a look at what state of charge it is at least once or twice in the 5 months.
3 Likes
Hey @Martinsp is this also the same for the regular anti spark switch without the push to start?
2 Likes
Yes I have just added a link to it in the thread for the regular AS switch
1 Like
I can definitely envision that scenario if you made a new cooler board and you have like 5 boards and you just haven’t grabbed that one in a long time when you grab a board to ride.
It’s probably more common than you think.
1 Like
Would you mind checking my pm again?
1 Like
Thanks for taking the time to help the do your tests!
I have 2 comments on this.
-
A 420wh battery at full charge will indeed take 156 days to drain from 100% to 0, which is completely acceptable imho. (However, i think the wh of a battery is calculated by its nominal voltage, not its max voltage, making a 10s10ah battery either 360wh or 370wh depending if its a liion or lipo, but im just nitpicking).
-
A note on the website to indicate this drain would be useful to those who are unaware. I could see the possibility of someone using your switch on a smaller battery pack, say a 7s6ah, and leaving it at 60% charge. That’ll drain to 0 in a month.
Also, just wondering if there was any way to get the passive power consumption even lower to that of a Unity (9uA)?
3 Likes
Hi @Martinsp,
I have some problems getting my "push to start anti spark switch with pushbutton" to work and probably need some help.
So far I connected everything including the 2 phase sensing wires to the motor leads. I am able to complete step 3.1 of the instructions successfully (potentiometer in end position, setup LED is ON) 
.
Then I plug in my VESC, your LED switch and the battery. VESC turns ON and also the green setup status LED is ON. But then, no matter how far I turn the poti clockwise, the VESC does never turn off as described in the manual 
.
When I use a voltmeter instead of the VESC to check (sensing wires still connected to two motor leads) I am able to tune to the setting point where the voltage drops down to 0 Volt (switch OFF) and if I turn the wheel, the voltage goes back to battery voltage (switch ON). Then I push the LED button until the green LED starts to blink to finish calibration 
.
Now the problem is still, that as soon as I plug in the VESC (instead of the voltmeter) and connect the battery, the VESC immediately powers on (at least the blue LED on my VESC is on) but I am no longer able to turn the VESC OFF with the LED switch - it just stays on and does not go off (the switch LED is also on, all the time). Furthermore there is no power throughput - the blue power LED of the VESC is still on, but even if I pull the gas pedal, the motor does not turn, only a quiet whining sound. Just to mention, when I plug in the battery directly to the VESC everything works fine.
Sorry for the lengthy explanation, I just wanted to be as precise as possible 
.
Gently turn the screwdriver clockwise to increase the time, counter-clockwise to decrease the time
Thanks, but this is what I mentioned with “I am able to tune to the setting point” - but it has absolutely no effect with the VESC connected, only works when using a voltmeter instead of the VESC (the VESC is totally ok, I checked this).
I think you contacted the customer service as well right? Just to avoid confusion and keep it in one place. I have just replied to the email with the same message as you posted so I think it is you.
1 Like
Yes, sorry - didn’t know what you prefer. So I tried both way’s. Is it ok if for you I use the customer service/email until we find a solution and then I will post the solution here (may be it’s of interest for the other user on the forum).
Hi @Martinsp! Just received your push to start switch today! (shipping was exactly 1 week, nice!)
Was wondering if it would be safe to drive my board’s front and rear 12V LED lights from the 12V source on your switch. The small LEDs are rated to 30mA I believe, and seems like they are wired up in a 3s4p configuration on each end (with some resistors too, so actual current is probably smaller), so total max current draw would be 8 * 30mA = 240mA. Would that be too much, or can I safely do that?
Edit: If I hadn’t broken my own 12V DC source I could just measure the current flowing through them, but here I am looking up LED datasheets 
My beefy 12V converters arrived early in the mail, measured two of my white LED lights, and the current slowly rises as they heat up, but I think it should stay below 150mA. Can the push to start switch handle that @Martinsp ? Then again, I found out that less powerful 12V converters are quite small and cheap, so I’ll probably get one of those just to be safe.
I am having this same issue right now and can’t get it figured out… what did you do @The_Dude or @Martinsp can you help me out…
Hi @Jansen, unfortunately the push to start feature still does not work for me/my configuration (eBike MAC Motor) although I finally made it to tune the setting point. It took me quite a while but if you turn the potentiometer really slow and only in small steps (half a revolution each) and wait for a short while after each half-turn you find the spot when the (V)ESC goes OFF. Sometimes, even at this point, I was not able to store the configuration by pressing the switch button several seconds. I had to turn the potentiometer a quarter or half turn further to get the green LED blinking.
With this configuration I am able to turn ON the auto switch by turning the wheel but the switch does not stay ON when I start driving. If I pull the throttle (using ADC mode of the VESC) the wheel starts spinning for one second or less and then stops - not enough power transmitted to the wheel, (V)ESC goes kind of OFF (blue LED is on but no power throughput). Interesting is, that I hear a “whining” of the motor when I pull the throttle again. Seems that there is some power transmitted but not enough the get the wheel spinning? After some tries, the auto switch bricks so that I even cannot turn it OFF or ON using the LED switch. Last exit is disconnecting the battery. I have two auto switches, both of them show the same behavior, so it seems to be symptomatically and not a defect switch.
Interesting thing ist that at one (only) point in time it worked quite good but after I put the auto switch to another location in the casing it stopped working again. Maybe the auto switch is sensible to any kind of interference, but I don’t know.
I described the situation to @Martinsp in detail and offered him to take some measurements (with his guidance) to assist in finding a solution. Last time was more than 2 weeks ago, I am still waiting for his reply. I would be really happy if I could get this push to start switch working since I really like the feature - but it’s simply not working reliably.
Any help of the forum is highly appreciated! Would be happy to know if anyone got it working.