Please review my battery pack so I don't make a šŸ”„

@TowerCrisis @jasonbhuynh ok cheers guys, Iā€™ll look for some sort of reusable adheasive stuff

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Iā€™ll bite.

Itā€™s not too exciting. I didnā€™t secure them cause ā€œitā€™ll only be a few ridesā€. Just randomly lost power while riding.

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A good read, thanks @akhlut

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Lab coats are out guys, suit up! :man_scientist: Lots of interesting info in there. :arrow_up: image image

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I like where they talk about the tips too

Pretty sure it doesnā€™t matter if you got burn marks on nickel to nickel welds. Itā€™s impossible to make a good nickel to nickel weld without any burn marks. At least for me. IMG_3474

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Well its better than nothing but if you read the PDF they talk about what can happen when there are burn marks and what they mean

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Is my pack safe/safe enough? This was my first packā€¦ Anything you guys would change to improve for my next one?

Hey @skatardude10 I do like the dual balance plugs one for monitoring and one for BMS!

  1. I couldnt see if you islolated the balance wires from the cells?
  2. You have some white insulation on the positive, what is that? It does not look as thick as fish paper rings.
  3. The red soldered on wires between the P-groups, I would use two smaller gauge wires for the same thing because they require less heat to solder / more flexible / thinner. Or better still braided strap.
  4. Exchange hot glue on cells for silicone for temperature stability in summer etc.
  5. I wish it looked a little neater / prettier :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:
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Hey thanks for the feedback! Iā€™ll work on it for my next packā€¦ I have e6000 just didnā€™t want to wait for it to dry. Thatā€™s a good point, 5, hot glue gets sticky easily.

As for 1, I donā€™t know how well of an isolator electrical tape is, but I put electrical tape above and below the entire path of each balance lead, and where they cross P groups they dont belong to, I added enough fish paper to cover those P groups, below the electrical tape.

2, I am pretty sure itā€™s fish paper? Itā€™s super strong and hard to tearā€¦

3: good idea, I considered that but wasnā€™t sure how much current Iā€™d need for the P groups.

5: I like it looking a bit shitty honestlyā€¦ Probably because Iā€™m jelly of everyone elseā€™s beautiful batteriesā€¦ I tried to make it pretty but it didnt work out very early on and I just said fuck it.

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i used a bunch of electrical tape and kapton. mine looks fugly, but its covered so w/e. first battery probably always rough

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Would someone please help me find whatā€™s wrong with my battery? Iā€™ve posted my problem in this thread, but still canā€™t find a solution

any help for this guy and his charging issue?

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I actually like @rojitorā€™s method of welding a nickel strip to an old cutter blade with different welding times and then look at the bottom of the blade to look at the burn marks. This works very well to find the perfect welding time.

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Awesome thread shown the battery porn. Everyone should be using fish paper

30q are only manufactured with flat tops. Button tops are added on (spot welded) by reseller.

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Did not know. Thanks.

Is this good or bad?

Well, itā€™s a piece of steel welded on with nickel strip. Not good unless you specifically need the button shape or extra length. And it costs more. This is true for most cells meant to be used in packs, and most of the cells weā€™re interested in.

Those thin stribs, not much current going through there. This is going to be a bottle neck, with lots of voltage sagā€¦