I would check their internal resistance with a multimeter, they are probably fine just need new connectors. If it was just a few seconds, I doubt there will be any noticeable damage to the cells themselves
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Yeah, You should always check the pack voltage of each pack before plugging them into the parallel board. If they are way off you should charge the lower one up to the voltage of the higher one. If they are slightly off plugging in only the main connector and letting them sit like that for a few minutes should allow the packs to balance each other out and then you can connect the balance connectors. It was either that or you have a short somewhere in the parallel board.
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The battery’s should be fine since the small wires would have fried almost instantly, which would mean the batteries would only have been shorted for less than a second
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I’m starting to vaguely look into trying to build an electric nickel and I’m curious about how you mounted the motor to the nickel trucks after the hub motors gave out. Could you post more pictures showing the mount you used and how (or if) it fits around the triangular piece of the nickel truck (where the logo is).
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Sorry for taking so long. I drew out the shape and cut it out of sheet steel manually. It took forever and I still had to make adjustments to get the right belt tension. I still want to just buy one of those cheap ebay motor mounts. There are sets with the belt, pulleys, and motor mounts for smaller wheels. I believe the set I got was for 70/73mm wheels. I got the one without the motor mount thinking it would be better to just make it custom. In retrospect, I believe it would’ve been easier to just cut out that notch on a premade mount. I basically used a hand saw, drill press, and dremel. It took me a few days to hack away into the right shape, then I epoxied it to the truck with the strongest kind. It won’t budge now. I did a lot of the adjusting for the belt after I had already epoxied it and it never moved.
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I have a little issue with the bumper coming off. Did you do anything to make it stay better?
UPDATED PARTS LIST:
Spike 27" penny board- $95 Diy Vesc (beefed up) - $100 Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P hard case x2- $50 Sk3 260kv motor- $60 Belt Pulley set- $13 Purple grip tape - $10 Zombie Hawgs 76mm wheels - $50 Sheet steel- $7 Baking tin enclosure- $0.99 Used penny bearings that came with board Screws and bolts - $10 Button- $10 Locktight, epoxy and such- $15 Connectors: $10 Voltmeter $16
The amount of money I’ve wasted on parts that have broke? I don’t even want to touch that. Please learn from my mistakes young grasshoppers.
A dab of silicone inside the guard, tape or clamp it down, let it set and all good
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My face is important haha
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Check out my Instagram if you want to see some of the other cool stuff I’m up to. I am a saxophonist, producer, and dj. My crazy kids make some appearances as well.
Kaylajazzmin
That’s the fastest I could go without speed wobbles. Pretty satisfied at this point. But I’m using dangerous batteries still. Got me up all the hills that my hubs couldn’t get me up no problem.
Do you use risers with your board/ Do you ever have any problems with wheelbite using the zombie hawgs wheels? I know they’re a fair bit bigger than the normal penny wheels.
Not at all. There is plenty of clearance. I could go bigger.
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Thank you! I really appreciate you documenting your build! So far it’s been really helpful with the planning of mine!
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Yea, I wish I would’ve done it the way it is now from the beginning lol. Glad I could help
I hate penny boards!!! I seriously do not know what do you like about them Anything under 36inch is not for me, i never liked skateboards but im a huge fan of flex longboards i had a custom made flexible board 44inch but it got stolen
I think they’re awesome and much more convenient when you’re using it as a last mile vehicle. I wouldn’t want to lug a huge board when I get to my destination.
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ur whole youtube channel is your esk8, nice