Penny "Nickel" complete dual hub motors zippy 6s20c 3000mah x2 in series

A month or two ago a self pressed pintail started delaminating in the rear. A clasmate suggested to dilute the glue with water for the same reason/result (5 parts glue 1 part water.) In the end it did help a little to get it into the cracks, but because the glue on the outside (more exposed to air) dried quicker than the glue on the inside it trapped the moisture inside of the board.

End result: The tip of the tail held strong, but the the bit behind the tail showed signs of delamination.

Also, my teacher told me that he prefers epoxy resin over regular wood glue for glueing pieces that already have lacquer on it because of the moisture.

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So, the insurance company is writing me a check to replace the board. I’m not sure whether I should get the same one or the slightly drop deck version. I’m using 150mm wheels this time around. Help me decide. Oh, and I will be getting the bumpers in purple. I have to do a new enclosure anyway so I was thinking split fiberglass one. Originally I had the 34" because well smaller equals lighter. But I really loved the 37" because it looked cooler. I wound up not getting it because it was so much more expensive. Now I’m not sure if the slight size difference would matter, plus I don’t think the split enclosure would fit right on the 34". Then again, I could still make it a single enclosure lol.

Or

I personally like the drops on the 37 better. Instead of being a gradual curve these give a place to ‘lock in’.

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Looks like the old board can easily be fixed Like many have said some Elmer’s wood glue and a clamp Or something really heavy pressing the split down like a few heavy cinder blocks.

I’m just going to replace it. I’d rather set it up better this time. I want the bumpers so it doesn’t happen again. They’re a really tight fit. Also, its not just wood that’s separated. It’s also the fiberglass. You can see it if you zoom in. I just don’t think it’ll keep the same quality over time with it split like that. I’ve gotten less than a month out of it and was hoping to ride it for a long time. Especially since they’re supposed to be basically indestructible. They’ve been run over by trucks on youtube. I don’t want to have to worry about it later

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A chunk of the wood got pushed inside so it doesn’t look like it would lay flat anyway.

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I suppose I can donate the busted deck to whoever feels they can fix it and would use it. Just pay shipping. I have to get my new one first though.

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I’ll take it and fix it up, when you get your new board. That’s awesome that insurance is covering it. Thumbs up to the lady that hit you for doing the right thing.

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Where are you located? I just posted in the freebies lol

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The majority of the money is from pain and suffering but they did cover the deck cost and a bit of the labor for me to rebuild it.

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I’m in California.

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I’m definitely going to do a drop through setup when I get the replacement deck. This is so high lol. Wheels have clearance. Still lots to do but I think I have the Pulley out of the way for now. I’ll have even more space with the 37" deck. It’s so rolley lol. I rolled a little on my floor.

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I finished a little cruiser spud today. It’s a single Carvon with an old vesc I had laying around with a 10s3p pack from @willpark16 . Sorry if it posts upside down I don’t know why on mobile

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Awesome you got a carvon. Good stuff.

Easiest, safest way to get these batteries out? I’m am stripping my board now and starting tge new hopefully split enclosure for the new deck.

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Holy crap! Those are things for racing skates right? How do they compare to “normal” longboard wheels?

I’m sceptical about those kind of wheels because of their thin profile

They’re 30mm wide which is wider than normal skate wheels. They’re for off road skates. They are very grippy. My new deck is going to to be here by the end of the day so I’ll see very soon lol. I had to alter the trucks due to the width of them.

:grinning:

Cool! How do they fare against normal longboard wheels regarding roll resistance?