Add just 20mm to make it 42mm please!
Just to each piece, then I can print out 2 of each!
i just bought a cheap alternative board bc i donāt want to spend all that nasty money. I got a blitzart hurricane and itās very nice. it goes at a good speed for me right now but the wheels feels like trash. it has a hub motor in one wheel and i was wondering if/how can i get new wheels or if there is some cool rubber wheel socks to put over or something interesting like that.
Short easy answer - you canāt. Most cheap hubs donāt have replaceable urethane, and the ones that do often donāt have a steady supply of replacements.
One of many reasons to steer clear of hub motors on anything but a toy board.
You can replace the other three wheels, but itāll always feel like garbage because three wheels have like 25mm+ of urethane, and one has like 8mm.
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i have new bliztart hub board and i want to upgrade it to go a little faster and go up bigger hills. i have 36v/4.0ah/18650 liion cell battery and 350w hub motor. what can i do for cheap
@bruh Short easy answer, you canāt. Most cheap hub boards are not easily upgradeable, and certainly not for ācheapā.
esk8 is expensive. Either you accept this now, or you spend days/weeks/months banging your head against the wall, spending money on small upgrades to a crappy board before realizing you could have just built or bought a decent one from the beginning and spent less money.
Also see my above answer to your earlier question.
You kind of fucked yourself by buying the cheapest single-hub thing. Either you recognize that now and do better, or you suffer. Your choice.
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Hey guys,
Someone on another forum told me I could use a TVS diode on my vesc with a breakdown voltage of 44.7V and a clamping voltage of 64.8V. My battery pack is 10S (42V). Here is the link if some information is missing:
Question is if this is the right TVS diode or if you know another good one for 10s?
I hope you guys can help!
Just to not spend 57 cents on the wrong diode lol
Maybe also a bit to protect my more expensive vesc
Can someone please answer my question?
would this work for battle hardening motors?
Aight, after some working in my spare time ive extended my budget to 500 bucks (100 goes to getting parts to build the actual skateboard locally). I have a 3D printer and some knowledge of CAD so I could design a pulley that would fit my trucks and Iām 90% sure it would be strong enough with 100% infill PETG, worst case scenario it breaks and considering I donāt die I either get a stronger material to print with or a metal pulley if I gather more cash. Anyway, it all boils down to the electronics alone. I figured based on some other post that these parts would most likely do me good:
SK3 245kv motor 2 3S 5-8ah batteries in series Hobbywing 6s esc (not sure if it includes a remote, basing it off banggood)
Im wondering if this would be worth building, is my budget still too strict? I would probably be using it about 10km (about 7 miles) a day (preferably have it go closer to 16km) hoping to reach (20 mph) 40km/h. Is something like wowgo 3 the way to go on this budget? Any advice would be appreciated! Sorry for replying to you specifically btw, just really trust your brutally clear response to questions like these
i use metal pla in prints that are high stress its heavier and more durable. 245 kv might give you trouble if your heavy or plan to climb hills. this is a better motor by far https:///collections/electric-skateboard-motors/products/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-190kv https:///collections/esc-speed-controller/products/torque-esc-bldc-electronic-speed-controllerhttps:///collections/remote-controller/products/torqueboards-2-4ghz-mini-remote-controller 500 is strict but it can definatly be done however you must rember buy nice or buy twice applies can i see a link to the batteries
Try again, that link didnāt come through properly.
Can someone please explain batteries to me? There are a lot of numbers and I donāt quite understand how they connect:
Thereās the āsā number, the āpā number, the ācā rating, the voltage, and the mAh number.
I know s means number of cells, that c is the discharge rate, and I know what voltage and mAh are, but I donāt quite understand how to pick the right ones. What will give me longer battery life? what will give me more power? How do I know what is correct?
A gigantic thank you to anybody who can help!
what speed should i slide at i watched a guy slide off a motorcycle going 65 mph but im not sure if im supposed to slide or roll at 25 mph
Thatās a great material for for thickening resins, but for battle hardening you really donāt need much thickening. Just fill any gaps between and behind the magnets, and then coat your windings. For the gap filling between the magnets you might want some thickening, but behind them, and for coating the windings, a thinner resin is actually helpful.
You also need to waterproof the sensor PCB, and usually thatās best done with a conformal coating, rather than an epoxy resin.
Iād say be prepared for a slide, youāre better off with gear on that lets the force be distributed over time instead of taking impact in one shot. When rolling chances of twisting something under your rolling body in a weird way or otherwise slapping something on the ground is higher, that said I donāt know if you really get a choice about it, but if you are in control enough when bailing then sliding is generally a safer thing to do. Rolling out works for people doing parkour and at running speed because they are preparing for it and focused on rolling in a way that keeps them safe.
Hi people,
- I am making my 18650 battery pack, but does anyone recommend to put fish paper / kapton tape between the cells in series like shown below? So that if the plastic around the battery melts, It doesnāt short everything.
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And which AWG should I use for the bms wires?
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I am planning on making 4 parallel packs of 10 batteries in series. Is this the desired way, or should I make 10 parallel packs of 4 batteries in series? Or doesnāt this matter?
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I heard kapton tape reflects heat alot or is this not true? Should I use it to isolate my connections or should I use heat-shrink for this?
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I just bought batteries with soldering lips from NKON, because I didnāt want to spend money on a spotwelder. I first thought I could just solder the lips together without overheating the batteries, but it turns out I have got just a little space left to solder.
Has anyone got tips to solder those soldering lips together without overheating the battery?
Greetings from Holland
Do you still have any questions? I can help you if so 