Hey guys. I bought a riptide R1 a year or so ago, and I wish I had gone for a board with a bigger deck, because I just am not that comfortable on the riptide deck. That being said, I would like to deck swap since it would be relatively easy to move the parts over. While I am at it, I think I will replace the stock trucks with Calibers since there are reports of the hangars snapping. I want to swap to a Landyachtz evo, or another drop deck, but I am concerned about clearance. Are these viable options, or should I look at other options? I figure I will definitely need risers, but I wonder about motor clearance as well. Any help or suggestions are welcome! I hope to start to get into DIY type stuff, and this seems like a simple start!
now i am a noob but you should be fine doing a deck swap with enough riser 
The enclosure is fairly deep. But that battery and esc will fit in the meepo enclosures. Look for non drop decks similar. Something that top mounts the trucks not drop through.
I re decked my riptide with a deck from Skateshread.
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This is what I am looking for! I may have to give up on the idea of using a drop platform deck. It sounds like top mount is the way to go. Did you swap out your trucks for calibers? Or are those still the stock trucks?
Front is caliber. Rear is caliber baseplate with the normal riptide hanger.
Trying to figure out motors mounts that don’t hit the enclosure for caliber rear hanger.
If i can’t ill put my tkp surfrodz trucks on there.
What i originally fixed it with.
That’s why I wanna replace them… I’ve heard too many stories of broken trucks with the riptide, and I wanna get ahead of it if I can.
If you mean the thin (<0.5mm) glass screen protectors, then A: they’re not tempered, and B: they’re okay for a casual drop and scratches (I always have one installed), but I guarantee if you drop your phone at speed facedown or fall and land on it, you will have a broken screen.
As for hammer tested, hammers are generally smooth and that distributes the impact. A rock will break it much more easily (Guess how I know?).
And bulletproof? Don’t make me laugh. The only thing it’d stop is an airsoft bb.
You’ve covered your bases as well as can be expected with a phone, but it’s still just a vulnerable slab of glass, metal and plastic without any of the ruggedizing that goes into an action camera, even a cheap one.
thanks man https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J47YVWP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AUHV41O9O81GJ&psc=1 i like this helmet will googles go over my glasses?
Hey!
I have been waiting hours to be able to make a thread, but this might do. I have been looking and thinking about electric skateboards for a long time now. I had so many questions when i started, even more now… The thing is most builds out there is longboards. I also have some specific requirements:
- Needs to be a cruiser/shortboard with a kicker
- Motor can do steep hills without sweating. I need torque right?
- Durable
- Battery lasts as long as possible
- Speed is not very important, battery and steep hills is.
- I want the best money can buy. When it will be quite expensive anyway, then i go all in. But it needs to be perfect. heh :slight_smile:
I travel alot and therefore bring my cruiser EVERYWHERE. Thats the main reason it needs to be small, have gooood battery and torque. Its heavy to push an electric skateboard around with no battery, right? I have been using this exact model for many years now:
https://eu.globebrand.com/products/blazer-rosewood-black?variant=1007908093955
But i have been thinking about getting one of those carbon fiber boards so that it does not get too heavy. Not tried them. I love wood and ive heard your feets gets tired because its so stiff. Aiaiai, so hard. Mostly need help with motor and battery. What is the alternatives with these requirements? 
Forgot to add, Im also open to having the battery in a backpack or something. Preferably not, but if it gets to tight. Then yeah.
For maximum range in a small package, cylindrical cells (18650, 2170, 26650) are the way to go - much more energy per unit volume than lipo pouches.
You want torque, and the best way to get torque is to gear low. Most boards with regular wheels (not pneumatic) have something like a 2.4:1 reduction, so going up to like 2.8 will improve hill-climbing. Runing an extra-low-KV motor will also help (the usual is 190, but you can find 170 and 140 sometimes), as will having a beefy motor and speed controller to handle lots of amps for low-end grunt.
@b264 has a bit of a fetish for boards with a kicktail, so I bet he can point you towards an appropriate deck, enclosure, battery, etc.
For a shorty board with a big battery, you may end up running out of space for the motor under the board, in which case reverse mounting it is an option, but it may be tricky with a kicktail.
While battery backpack is something that has been done before, it’s usually either a last resort or an experiment due to the multiple drawbacks of such a setup, such as voltage spikes from long wires, danger of entanglement or inadvertent disconnection, increased risk of shorts or battery damage in a fall, and having an angry, flaming battery attached to you in the case of a fire.
I do, but I don’t come here much anymore. Check out this build on the new forum
https://forum./t/the-blue-one-12s-lifepo4-170kv-6374-caliber-2-30-43-powell-peralta-focbox/75
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Looking for a pulley gear for MBS Five Star rims that are 20mm wide. Anyone have any idea where I can get one? I have only found 15mm wide.
thanks.
Hi,
This is more of a scooter question but I need to rebuild the battery pack of my m365. a 5 inch nail wrecked one of the rails that goes along side the batteries. I ordered a new one but I can’t find a complete teardown of the pack anywhere online.
Thoughts?
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Guys, I need help,
I have 2 x 10,000 mAh, 6s LIPO packs and they’re wired in parallel, giving me 20,000 mAh capacity at 6s. At the moment I balance charge them but am wanting to put them in an enclosure so ordered a couple BMS’s. At first, I thought that I could use a 6S BMS but then wondered how it would balance each individual cells as there are 12? Would I combine each balance wire together such as each cell 1 wire together, cell 2 together etc etc and then solder onto the pads on the BMS as there are only 6 spots.
OR, I also bought a 12s BMS for £35 ( stupid) and was wondering if I could put each balance wire to an individual balance section. Would that work or would it OVER charge the pack, expecting 44.4V?
Also, how do I bypass for discharging? Not connect one wire?
Sorry for such a loaded question, I’m so confused and want to ensure they all balance charge
AH, i’m being dumb. I have to connect the cells balance wires together and just connect to a BMS like that, the cells will match eachother and act like the same cell when connected. Oops
Hello my friend split the female xt60 connector but not the male connector,
is it still safe to use? He didn’t have solder experience.
What do you mean split? I cant make out the photo
I mean the female xt60 is sawn through it is now separate, it’s two parts the female.
but the xt 60 male holds it together.