Anyone have any tips for drilling holes in the side of a pelican case for female xt90 plugs? I’m planning on using some loopkeys as a power switch but I’m having trouble thinking how to get the female ends sticking out of the case and being secure. I’m worried that whatever holds it in place won’t be strong and just plugging/unplugging the loopkeys will pull the connector out/push it into the case.
This is also a concern of mine.
I make holes with a file the exact shape of the male XT90 and use JB Weld to secure them. I have 4 so far and none have broken loose. You have to be very meticulous in how you do it, though, and you have to give the epoxy a FULL 30 hours to cure and do it in about 5 coats, ensuring it’s mixed very well and in the proper ratio. The first time is just 3 tiny drops to tack it in place, then wait 30 hours…
https://forum./t/the-blue-one-12s-lifepo4-170kv-6374-caliber-2-30-43-powell-peralta-focbox/75
The part in the case should be male (like this:)
that way if the spark arrestor fails, it’s in the key, not glued into the board.
That said, if I were to do it again I’d 3d print a holder, glue the xt90 into it, then screw the holder to the case. I can bang one out in fusion if you want (assuming one doesn’t already exist, I haven’t looked.)
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they think its reckless and wasteful
Say to them, “And driving around in a vehicle powered by exploding dinosaur squeezings isn’t?!”
Will do, they said electric skateboards make you fat and lazy but on a board u stand and lean and its more efficent than using the remains of dead creatures sitting in a metal box and spewwwing smoke out of pipe
yes, please dont. without proper equipment you will almost guaranteed destroy all your cells, and very likely start a fire
Those holders exist, but I stopped using them. I like epoxying directly to the enclosure. (and inside, epoxy the charge fuse on top of it)
But, you have to use/mix the epoxy correctly, be meticulous, wait a long time for cure, and do a good job, paying attention to detail. If you do that, it will not come loose. If you half-ass it, no guarantees 
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Want to mount under the board but having a problem. The mounts hit & motor will too when you lean. Was thinking routing maybe but i feel it will weaken it. What do yall think i could do. I really love the idea of undermounts
File off the mount where it’s hitting the board
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Thats a good idea 
Hello,
I want to make a 10s4p battery but unfortunately in my country (Argentina) the BMS is not reached to load / download the package correctly. It occurred to me if it is possible to divide the package into two of 5s2p each with a 5-cell BMS and put it in parallel to turn it into a 10s4p one. Is it possible? Would it work well?
P.D: The load would be carried out by placing two independent ports in the enclosure.
Is there another site/forum where people gather to talk about esk8? Asking for a friend 
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I will today, its annoying a little to re glue the screws with threadlocker every time 
Thanks
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Not taking esk8 apart and resealing for water resistance/waterproofness?
I’ve got this type of BMS
And I need to extend the cable that leads to the P groups of my battery.
I guess I could just cut the wires and solder in an extension but I would rather just buy a premade cable.
Any idea of what type of cable I should buy, or maybe how I could figure out what exactly I’m looking for?
It is lost likely a jst style of connector. You could measure the pin spacing and relate that to which jst connector you need (xh, eh, ph, etc is the common nomenclature)
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Well at least now i know what to look for. I found a table of the different JST connectors on wikipedia and I think it’s JST PA or JST PH… I measured the distance between the first and last pin and it seems to be about 2cm, so that would be 2mm pin to pin distance I guess. The whole connector is about 2.3cm
How do I distinguish between the two? Preferably without unplugging the cable, I’m not sure if it’s safe to do that without soldering the other connection to the battery.
edit: It’s seems like it’s actually a little bit less than 2mm and I didn’t take into account that the actual pins themselves also have some thickness… So maybe it’s JST ZH…
Another edit: Okay… I’m reading the datasheets right now and it’s definitely not JST ZH. the whole connector is about 2.5cm. JST PA and PH have a center to center of pin of 2mm, plus 1.9mm on each side of the connector. so that’s probably it.