I feel like unsoldering it could be dangerous, it’s supposed to be a sensitive thermal measurement part, PCB is just a brick of silicon and should therefore be more tolerant to tampering
What would be the recommendation for cutting? I can file it since it’s thin or use a Dremel with a fiber cutting wheel
I see. To my understanding (take it for what its worth), is that the sensitive part of the thermal probe is the top bit that is screwed into the heatsink.
For cutting, i would use a fine anything with low pressure when cutting (basically anything to reduce the strain on the PCB), but maybe someone else has a better reccomendation.
Go for DIY you can see my build. this was my first build and I had no experience.
Throttle curve is not affected by sensors. (there is some weirdness when starting from a dead stop without sensors, but that’s a different issue.)
The thermally sensitive part is where it’s bolted to the heatsink. Desoldering the wires at their other end will be totally fine.
You can cut PCB with nippers, a fine tooth hack saw, or a dremel tool. Just be careful to avoid exposure to the fiberglass dust, and be aware that any non-abrasive tool will be dulled fairly quickly.
What about cutting and resoldering the wires? The base is potted with the e switch
It’s doable, just stay as far from the thermistor end as you can, given constraints.
Can I get a recommendation for a BMS for 12S3P Samsung 40T on a Unity?
Do you want bypass or discharge? I know BKB has one of each for 12s, the BesTechs D140 and the D223V1 respectively
Whenever I see batteries there always flat packs, double stack or staggered. Are there any issues with building a pack with the cells standing upright ?
It makes the enclosure at least 65mm tall, street and hybrid boards just don’t have the clearance. It works for the Baja and its technically more space efficient but it’s also harder to implement flex into the pack and get the wires to sit in a neat bundle. It does make the welding more consistent though, all the nickle sits flat at each end
It would be okay if you use the side of the enclosure for strength instead of the deck so you could trim off some weight and get some bigger wheels
I can probably get away with a 3inch deep enclosure
Anyone know what this sound could be? Bad bearing maybe? Seems to be coming from the front trucks or wheels.
They usually use the vertical stacks in MTB boards that have a box for the battery
I’d guess rattling bearing spacer. Bearing spacer isn’t long enough to be pinched between the bearings, so it rattles.
I’ll try removing them and give it another test ride
If you tighten the axle nut more, does it make the wheel harder to spin?
It does not. It stays the same and won’t tighten anymore. Wheel spins freely.
The bearing balls are hitting the protector or one of the bearings is toast, same thing happened to me before yesterday
You have a bad bearing if the torque on the axle does not affect the rotation of the wheel. Without or indeed with a short spacer as you tighten the wheel the two inner races will compress and put pressure on the outer thereby causing friction and slowing down the rotation. Always better to ride with a larger spacer than a shorter and definitely don’t ride with no spacers.