Isopropyl alcohol should do it. Preferably 91%, but 70 will work in a pinch. Donāt use less than 70%.
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Bolt the motor down to something and then give it a good yank. I have a 700lb welding table with a vise that makes a perfect āimmovable objectā for brute force stuff.
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I got it off. I cleaned it with a toothbrush and no water, put it back on and thereās still some resistance. Do you have some tips on how to clean it properly?
There wasnāt resistance a week ago, but I used a hammer to hammer a pulley on the motor shaft which is when the resistance started to happen
Are you certain itās a mechanical issue and not an electrical short? Iād check all your phase wire resistances and their resistance to ground to make sure there are no shorts.
I just found a few micro scraps of metal in the motor cup so Iāll keep on trying to clean it. So it should be mechanical
Check the bearings. You may have inadvertently knocked a cover off with the hammer episode. Ask me how I know lol
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How the heck do I even remove the bearings on a motor lol
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Its usually a nasty job that requires the bearings to be destroyed in the process if the motor is well used. Depends on the motors though. Never had to do it on a tb but on a sk8 they came out pretty easily once I stripped the whole thing down. Got to locate all the grub screws and undo without stripping them. I believe the tb has a circlip too but donāt quote me on that. One thing is true though once youāve done it once you will know the motor mechanics inside out lol Good luck
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Hey everyone! If compare two 4000W motors by APS
- 6384 motor 100KV have torque: 6.9 NM
- 6384 motor 200KV have torque: 3.8 NM
200kv with gear 1:5 will give 19NM of torque (not including looses of gear) 100kv with gear 1:2.5 - 17.25 NM of torque (not including looses of gear). Does it mean that 200KV more effensive (1.75NM more) than 100KV with the same power consumption?
Theoretically, yes. Lower KV means more wraps of wire around the stators, which means more resistance, more heat, less power. Ideally you want the highest KV you can safely use without exceeding the ERPM limit of the controller.
On the flip side though, higher KV means higher ERPM, which can lead to higher switching and eddy current losses.
Iād say youāll be fine either way. Unless you have a motor dyno to check those numbers, thereās a chance of variation between motors, batches, and over time. 10% difference between the two isnāt a deal breaker IMO.
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I have a small waterproof hard case/box thing to put my ESC in, that I plan on mounting to the tail of my trampa deck. Do you think that a full coverage on the bottom of double sided foam tape, such as command strips would be strong enough to hold it?
To hold the ESC or the case? Tape is fine for the ESC but make sure it canāt tug the wires out, I recommend bolting it with the truck base plate bolts for the case
The motor has less resistance than before, but thereās still slight clicking while rotating it around in the same spot that I marked. I spent an hour trying to clean it, and I got a good amount of dirt and metal scraps out, but there might still be micro pieces of metal stuck inside.
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Catastrophic bearing failure fills the motor up with debris. You have to strip it down completely and make sure you have everything accounted for or throw it away. Its the bearing covers that cause the most damage.
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Are these two compatible with each other?
https:///products/dual-motor-mechanical-kit?variant=712352301079
And
If you upgrade to the 218mm trucks and but stay with low profile 6355 motors then yeah
Can someone just check Iām not about to burn my house down with this wiring? - THANKS! =)
20700b batteries, 12S4P, BMS = charge only
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Thank you! but iām still confusedā¦
For my project I need motor with as low KV as possible, or i need gear big ratio, because iām riding BMX its 20" wheels (please dont ban me, i know it board-building forum)
I tend to buy 60/100KV 6374/6384 motor, simply because then gear will look much better. The reason Iām not sure is that all MTB builders choose 170KV and gear 5:1 for 8" wheels, and with 3:1 gear they use 130kv motors and confirm that it has the same torque. It fits my calculations, but it doesnāt mean that their power consumption is the same, isnāt it? Just wanted to know what the efficiency gains with an increase in KV However 10% - it can be few extra kilometers of range.
Charge negative goes to C- on the BMS, the P- port is for the ESC negative if you have a discharge BMS. Currently you have it close to a bypass BMS which will not stop if a p-pack goes dead or the pack goes under voltage