Higher C rating is always better it means less internal resistance in all cells and less heat build up/loss/voltage drop under load. More overhead is always better assuming the mfg isn’t just labelling a thing with higher specs than it can actually withstand. In general the battery will wear less if you aren’t pushing it to it’s limits during charge or discharge (general rule of thumb having more overhead is always a good thing not running things to their limit either maximums or minimums is good)
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Can this remote work with any board?
I want to replace the switch on my Evo. Since I will be getting a new eboosted enclosure I want to keep the holes to a minimum (will only have a charging port and an on/off switch) plus I would like the switch hole to be 12mm dia as this is what the Unity has which I will have in another board. I use a Bestech D223V1 with an e-switch on 12S
http://www.bestechpower.com/444v12spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D223V1.html
I am thinking about something like this (the 48V version) but if you have any suggestions I would love to hear them.
No only boards that use the hobbywing esc.
If anyone knows is the reverse torque motor mount meant for a motor not mount on the inside but on the outside (reverse) so the back? And can you use a regular one that’s meant for the normal way?
I am wondering the same thing
I am planning on building this, should I change something?
Motor 2x:190 kv 6374 180€
Vesc: 250€
Battery 2x: 240€
Battery charger: 50€
Battery bag: 4€
Battery precenteage indicator: 10€
Remote/receiver: 50€
Mounts/wheels/trucks https:///products/dual-motor-mechanical-kit?variant=712352301079 370€
Everything about: 1225€
What’s the best way to drain cells without a board? I wanna do a capacity test but it’s charge only so I need all of them at exactly 3.00V
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I don’t think you’ve considered shipping and import taxes for things outside the eu
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But I am inside the EU!
But your buying stuff from all over the place. Australia,china and the us
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Best whould be an electrical load (pretty expensive). Second best whould be a resistor that can handle the power (P=U^2/R), keep monitoring the voltage till you get to the voltage you want. The resistor method does not protect you from overdischarging and damaging the cell.
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Perfect, thanks so much. So one pair for the board, one pair for the battery, one pair for the antispark (with xt90-s) ad how many for the rest of the board?
From most of the places K can get free shipping
Will this work with a Lipo battery?https://hobbyking.com/en_us/skyrc-ultimate-duo-400w-20a-ac-dc-balance-charger-discharger-power-supply-eu-plug.html
I’d DEFINITELY recommend getting a different light bar. It looks like there are only 3 elements on that bar, and there are many other light bars out there on ebay that are equal or better for a fifth of the price.
Check around the forums, there’s a few threads of personal testimony to various ones.
Don’t use hobby chargers. Use a BMS and a regular 2-wire brick charger.
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@Robotics I second what he says, coming from using a hobby charger its not worth the hassle. Get a BMS it makes your life so much easier
A BMS and a brick charger is basically the same price as a hobby charger and is much, much better for esk8.
Can you recommend something, of high quality. I have a pretty high budget.