Yes, buy why not spend $0.10 extra and put the right wires on it so your not wasting power as heat and limiting performance. They made it that way knowing 80a continuous is not realistic, or things will burn. Your power wires might as well be fuses
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Sorry i need to correcr myself, the phase wires are 14awg and not 12 awg. The power wires are 12 and not 10. With an xt60 power connectorā¦
I guess the only draw to the unity then is that it has an optional warranty that covers user error, but still itās not even able to be purchased at the moment
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This is esk8 in a nutshell. If itās out of stock or unavailable, then you shouldnāt plan on using it.
Iāve seen a lot of lists of parts with some/most out of stock. Those esk8 never get built because by the time your parts are in-stock, if ever, there are newer, better parts available that will work there, requiring a redesign of your other parts.
TL;DR: donāt build with vaporware parts
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Iām looking for some kind of truck bedliner spray or some type of protective coating for the abs enclousure. Anything avialable in Europe for around 30-40e? Everything I find is way way more expensive.
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Whatās the difference in using the motor (+focbox) to charge the battery if:
- I donāt break and just let the motor spin while driving down a mountain
- Break (with regen enabled and set to an appropriate value)
Isnāt the motor charging the battery in situation 1 as well? When I spin the motor by hand the ācharged capacitanceā value in the vesc tool increases so it charges right?
Think of it this way:
Spinning your wheel by hand takes very little effort
Spinning the wheel by hand with brakes on takes more effort
That effort directly relates to energy which directly relates to electrical energy able to be recovered.
If you notice, a hub motor has much more rolling resistance than a free wheel. That is energy exchanged by making the motor work as a generator.
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I feel like this is a personal experience of yours, mind if i asked what happened?
Typically, bed liner spray paint is not nearly as strong as advertised. You can watch this video and hopefully it helps a bit.
Hello, Iāve been lurking a few months now, learned a bunch so far, Iām building a budget board to commute to work, gym, corner store. The furthest is the gym itās about 3 miles driving, so range is not that important as of yet, maybe on my next build.
anyhow, I purchased some battery packs I found on eBay that were used in electric skateboards and the boards were returned or whatnot, the listing claimed some cells may be disconnected etc. I was prepared to do a cheap battery and relay/Arduino welder to repair them, but to my surprise they are all good, shipped to me at 40v. I opened them up anyway just to be sure all was good. They are 10s2p 4000mah, I ordered two to run parallel. I checked balance and they are all almost perfect. I understand they are prob weak and will sag, I live in flat earth, Florida, the only grade I climb is the little slope onto the sidewalk lol. I only paid $60 for the pair to make 10s4p and may get another for 10s6p if there is too much sag or not enough range.
My question is, about the bms. I want to verify itās a bms and not just a protection board. 
the other side of it helps any
Freewheeling regenerates practically zero energy. Braking regenerates energy proportional to your speed and the strength of your brakes.
All motor setups have more resistance than a normal wheel, because the drivetrain has losses, and the motor has losses. If you just went down a mountain without braking, the drivetrain and motor would be warm or hot at the bottom, but your battery wouldnāt be any more full, because 100% of the energy was lost as heat. If you applied brakes, the drivetrain would still be warm or hot, but your battery would be fuller, because some of the energy was being captured as electricity.
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Looks like a BMS to me. That group of small components on top in the first picture looks like the usual chain of transistors and resistors used to bleed down any cell thatās out of balance, and the aluminum plate on the bottom looks like a heat spreader for some fets.
You should look up some info on that BMS to find out how much discharge current it can provide. If itās not enough, you can bypass it for discharge by connecting the āP-ā and āB-ā pads together with a similarly sized piece of wire.
Yes thank you, rewiring to charge only bms is my plan.
Is it voltage or amps that determines the wire size? It is wired with these smaller connections that I was thinking of using for charging and use the xt60 to power the vesc
Amps
10char
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@Komamtb @Dirt_Bag Thank you; I was considering bedliner spray also. I think a Sender Skates like treatment may be better. But more difficult/expensive.
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From my (admittedly limited) understanding, most commercial-grade bedliner sprays are some form of two-part thermoset epoxy or polyurethane/polyurea material, which while extremely tough, requires a special two-part mixing-and-spraying aparatus. Most aerosol versions are a much simpler solvent-based system.
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my favorite paint for enclosure is Rustoleums textured outdoor paint. it pretty dang tough and its easily sandable. I have bottomed out on my fiberglass enclosure and all i did was fill the gouges with body filler, a light hand sanding to even it out, and then repaint over it. it looks good as new and the finish looks fantastic. dust barely shows up, and small rough areas of the enclosure are masked with the slight texture.