Now Iâm kinda screwed lol. No clue how to get these our
Thatâs it lol. Theyâre supposed to be driven in with a T20 torx. I canât strip them for the life of me. Is it stuck?
Try to grab an area of the motor that doesnât turn. Do a forward and back rotation movement to see if you could loosen the screw up.
Did you use loctite on them?
You can also get those ez out kits at home depot. We only use torque are my work every now and then you will get a unit in that has been monkeyed with by the customer and they put phillips in. Dremel a slot in it and you will be able to get it out with a flat head screw driver
Can you mix different baseplates with different branded trucks?
Why use genuine trucks? Are they much much better than clones?
I managed to get it out.do you know what size these are so I can get some new ones?
JB Weld a bolt to the top of it and wait 55 hours before trying to turn it loose
M4x8mm 10chars
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Definitely M4. You have to check and see if you need 8mm length or 10mm length. You want to use as much thread as possible but not go in far enough to hit the windings and short them out.
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Hi, I read about anti-sparks not being safe and blowing often.
Is it safe to use the E-Switch on my BMS? (Bestech HCX-D345) And wonât that blow? Would be crap if my BMS diedâŚ
Thanks!
The anti-spark blowing typically wonât blow up your BMS. Also whether youâre discharging through the BMS or bypassing it (using it for charge-only) is a drastic difference. An anti spark failing when you bypassed the BMS could possibly wreck your cells if you let them die but it still probably wouldnât break the BMS
Thanks, but I wonât be using a separate anti-spark. I plan on using the inbuilt power switch on my BMS. But I want to be sure this inbuilt switch on the BMS doesnât die just like a BMS. So I will be charhing/discharging through my BMS.
This is a question for the BMS seller then. Ask them about high-capacitance loads.
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Hi,
Iâm deciding between a 10s and a 12s battery right now. The thing is is that if I go with the 12s Iâll only have space for a 12s3p battery, against a 10s4p otherwise. this means I would go up in voltage, but loose in amperage and watts.
I get that higher voltage means higher top speed, and higher amperage means more torque. But what would it practically mean for this setup. Itâs a trade-off, but I donât know what would be the difference. What would be the practical difference between the two setups? This is the battery I would use. I would be running a custom 75kV direct drive motor.
Thanks!
For this motors I really advice 12s since you get both torque and speed over the 10s. Although the battery cells you chose are not that great in term of continuous current, so probably 10s4p is better. There is a particular reason why you want to use those cells instead of Samsung 30Q? If you want 12s3p with a lot of amp then buy VTC6 , but they are expensive.
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With those cells, 4P is better than 3P.
40 cells is better than 36 cells.
Not sure what ESC youâre using, but for most popular ESCs I recommend 10S as they are not using parts rated high enough (DRV8302 etc) to safely exceed 45V
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Simple answer yes. And yes. To an extent you can mix some baseplates and hangers. Like you can put caliber hangers in Randal baseplates. And you can put Paris hangers in Randal baseplate a combo known as prandals. The reason why you should use genuine trucks is because generally the bushings and pivot cups suck.
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I know, you advice that, but that does not help if it doesnât fit in there :P. I was under the impression that more amperage = more torque, but I guess thatâs not true? I tried to look for a thread which explained it, but I couldnât find any. I donât think I need that much speed, only torque as I would be using it in a city.
Iâm constrained with the size of my board, which as a width of 91mm. With both types of cells I can fit 4 sideways, but the 18650 cells are slimmer. My cells are thicker, so I can fit more of them in the same space. Iâm open to change if there is a better cell type to use.
Iâll be using a Unity, which is high enough rated for 12s.
That was my question, those 4 cells give more wattage total, but have less voltage in that configuration. How would this impact the board IRL?
Sotty but I just drop it here because I think I already told you about it. I guess you will use the short Haya board. This picture is taken from @StefanMe, where he fits really easy 10s4p with modified NESE modules that take quite some space. I guess you are gonna use classical spot welding and you use a unity which is dual. To me you can fit a 12s4p battery in it, or for sure a 11s4p.
EDIT: Took the HAYA grooves size and simulated a battery set up with 18650 cells, unity and BMS place next to it. 11s4p no problem. With a bit of fantasy 12s4p is also possible to me.
12s4p. Not say that is worth it. 11s4p would be a great battery already and way easier to make it if it is your first time. If the BMS is a micro one then it will fit on one side against a wall and you can fit 12s4p with a normal configuration.
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@ryansinatra That screw actually doesnât look completely rounded out. Iâd recommend getting a T20 torx bit (Theyâre like $1 at most big-box stores) and gently hammer it into the screw. (It might even fit without hammering.) Then use a 1/4" driver of some sort on the torx bit.
After youâve got it out, Iâd recommend either A: If you stay with stainless hardware, stay with torx screws, and use a torx driver. Youâll twist the head off the screw before you strip it. or B: If you plan to use hex, go with high strength (grade 12.9) alloy steel screws rather than stainless, and use Wera hex-plus wrenches. Theyâre the best ones out there, and are absolutely worth the money.
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