If more strength is required or the holes are large, fiberglass/epoxy is another option, or if your enclosure is plastic, solvent welding of a plastic patch is another good method.
Whatever your method, give it lots of time to dry/cure/harden/evaporate, according to whatever instructions.
If itĀ“s bigger holes you could also 3D print a cover and just glue it in with epoxy.
If the holes are very large, look how I used JB Weld 8265-S to cover this giant hole around the loopkey
should I leave this at default?
Can depends on if you are doing dual or not since you are using the unity you are more than likely doing dual so you would want can forward
but what does can forward mean i dont get it.
Loop key related question here.
If I am mounting battery, Vescs and whatnot to my deck, but loop key port and charge port are connected to my enclosure, should I just add bullet connectors on either side of the loop key port to make it easy when attaching and removing the enclosure? Cheers
can forwards the information from the master to the slave. Even though it is a dual one side is master the other is slave.
You would still need to secure the loop key to the enclosure I used abs cement you cause also you jb weld you can also 3d print a panel mount for it. After it is secured just solder the wires to the ends on the loop key. As for the actual key there are several different ways people make the loop key. @b264 solders on a multi layered braid and then conformal coats the braid. @mmaner uses a single thick gauge copper wire and then uses a 3d printed cover to make it easier to pull on and off.
here is mikeās loop key fob file
Panel mount
I have already printed the panel mount and it looks great. I just realized that if my xt90 is soldered to my battery harness and also glued into my enclosure, it would be very difficult unless all my electronics weāre mounted to my enclosure (which I donāt want to fo because I donāt want the extra weight on the inserts)
Best option would be to have a simple bullet connector disconnect yeah?
If you use bullet connectors you need to ensure they canāt vibrate apart. I usually put heatshrink over it to keep them from separating.
Why not to just use an usual xt90 on the inside as well. No need for bullet connectors and heat shrink. If you aware they can get off each other, just use a small cable tie to hold them together.
Well because it would just be one wire, not two ?
If you use XT90, put a small cable tie around them so they canāt vibrate apart.
Yes, I know how tight they fit together. Given enough riding, they can separate inside your enclosure.
Should I go Etoxx chain drive since itās cheaper or go straight for the gear drive?
Pinging all you experienced battery builders: @barajabali @longhairedboy @psychotiller @hyperIon1 @hyperIon2
Iāve heard nickel to nickel welds are tough.
I was planning originally on layering 5 - 6 layers of nickel for a 175A total capable set of cells in 10S.
I did some test nickel to nickel weldsā¦ And they arenāt nearly as strong as the welds to cells themselves. The nickel to cells leave a nice tiny hole on each spot weld when yanked off.
The nickel to nickel welds, at full power, are strong-ish, but once I get it started I can basically peel it off as if itās medium strength Velcro, maybe lessā¦ And no holes or metal tearing when split apart. Is this just par for the course when it comes to nickel?
Should I just make sure itās on better by welding more spots on the nickel to to nickel sections (all only P-group connections)?
Or should I try maybe only one or two 0.15mm nickel strips and a soldered solid core copper wire across the P group with an 80-100W iron, pre-tinned nickel strip [may even pre-tin prior to spot welding itā¦?] and copper wire, and cooled with cool damp sponge in order to make the P group connections robust enough to deliver 75+A across a couple cells worth of what would have been layers of nickel?
Or maybe Iām missing an even better way to go about delivering high amps from one side of a P group to the other for terminating into a series connection wire or twoā¦ Bus bars/PCBs ontop of the cells wonāt work in this build.
Yes, you are correct any more than 3 layers and the welds donāt hold well. Finding the sweet spot depends on what your demands are, and of course, there is not just one right way, in fact, several have emerged on the forum depending on your specific scenario. flat braided copper wire has been used if flex is needed and even solid copper bars, technics, and material quality play a hand. You also have to keep in mind to much of a good thing is just that, too much. More material higher resistance, higher resistance more heat, and lost power.
I donāt need much flex, but someā¦ and my nickel strip is only 8mm wide so Iāll probably steer clear of copper braid.
Thanks for the response, I donāt know if I fully understand the resistance thingā¦ I thought more material the better, but i havenāt considered the added resistance of layers upon layers of nickel. Tell me if Iām on the right track: cell --> layer of nickel --> series connection = lower resistance than cell --> layer upon layer upon layer etc of nickel --> series connectionā¦ Hence the couple or so being a sweet spot.
Iām really leaning now towards solid copper bar, and 2 max layers of nickel. No longer considering 3 or more. I hadnāt considered that the welds might even get worse after the first nickel on nickel layerā¦
I have seen them done 100 different ways. Im sure someone can do all the math behind it to substantiate it. Different cell types and what they can handle is a factor. The 30q work well with 2-3 layers of parallel and a double serial with nickel, copper adds a lot in braid or bar. the bus bar PCBs work well because it is only 2oz thick copper bars
Should I just go Gear Drive right off the bat or go chain drive to start since itās cheaper?