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#244

the bearing that she is banging in is bigger than the motor will be using and I fear if she uses the correct thinner bearing it will be crushed or too tight as Mr.happy says. but I’m not sure it will be too tight so asking her to try to press the right bearing in with the big one she showed on top and using a true press and not a hammer. If she can get the right bearing down there without crushing it then it’s good as is and we get things five days sooner! I have bearings with internal clearance within them for just such a tight fit anyway.

Id rather it be a press fit actually but it looks way too tight in that video. We will see.


#245

There are bearing designed for this purpose which are slightly oversized. Usually they are inserted with a differential temperature fit.


#246

Just pop them in the liquid nitrogen. No hammer required…


#247

I don’t mean to say that you are doing this wrong, but shouldn’t the bearing be inserted using a hydraulic press(or mechanical). That way it gets uniform pressure from all sides. I would suggest a car jack installed in such a way that it can push the bearings in.

Also you might have to heat the outer one and cool the inner one

A good fit is desirable for long lasting operation


#248

Not going in with a hammer is not the definition of too tight. you have to use a press.


#249

for sure agree with both of you. ive asked her to try again pressing the 52x40x7 bearing under the monster bearing she’s banging in with the hammer. I have no idea what goes on at that place considering. maybe its a good test. for me getting an appropriately sized bearing with what would amount to something like .005mm interference ideally is rare and expensive to find. . Retaining fluid is often recommended. But woke up at 5am and told her to NOT cut them all (hopefully!) to the wider 52.00 with tolerance +.02 that was what it was supposed to be. So I want an interference fit, and I want it on the housing side first and possibly even the shaft with the obstacle then being assembling: pressing the two bearings at the same time, so pressing the stator into the rotor yea I’d like to get some liquid nitrogen and shrink them solid and working that way but given having put together the old the retaining fluid is pretty versatile though and as long as not too hot it lasts. a squirt on interference fit and the ultimate in smooth silence. but some people ride bare with the tight slide fit even on the aluminum motors and the rattle is pretty minor. interesting to see no one told me of their aluminum shaft being worn down and I’m still riding the oldest blue goo aluminum just to try to kill them and the shafts haven’t shown to wear while riding( I don’t open them to look because that design sucks to open and close, more glue and huge effort sometimes.) I guessed the cheap 6000 aluminum would’ve worn down but don’t know the forces that would be on that 20mm x 7mm aluminum shaft. Doing 30mph with a 200lbs rider on a mediocre road and than smacking a pot hole or something, can you guess/math the forces or maybe put a sensor on something?
steel now though buddies and syched.

(the shafts on the sample were a tight press fit and its a wild ride getting these parts made at a reasonable price even with the supposed to be tolerance of -.02mm .)


#250

I know, i work as a machinist in a printing press machine shop for summers. its constant bearing swaps for all of the rollers. He asked what the dangers of a bearing fit being too tight.


#251

@Hummie

Are we getting any motors before summer 2018 or not?


#252

Bearing heaters can be used as well…induction heaters


#253

it will be close to 2018 new year day I think. definitely no later than January. they just are doing the last bell and say it takes an hour to machine each one. so they say. they always pull through just slowly.
give me till a couple days into January and I really think for sure as the latest. they’re on it now they say. ok they just said about 15 days. I know it seems like that all the time but its out of their mouth and lets see where we are in a week and confirm

but she says she can get me a couple beginning next week probably without any finish. I’ll do the “seasoning” thing as I was planning to do before and wrote about. if that sounds good to you and you don’t feel like waiting another week and a bit for them to put a clearcoat pm me and I’ll get some more this way.


#254

I prefer to get them late and done right than get them early with problems. Keep up the good work.


#255

Oh they are milling it in a VMC hactually :o Do you have more videos of the prosess?


#256

i’ll have video of them putting them together in about a week to make sure of fit but video of them making them I don’t have more of.


#257

@Hummie

No stress my friend. Take your time and make them right. I don’t want a half baked product. In that case I wold buy maytech or other Chinese hubs instead.

If I get them 1 of march I’ll be a happy guy. Then I have a month before snow melts to make my build ready.

Thanks in advance and best of luck.


#258

your real world job is being a teacher right? what do you teach if you don’t mind me asking? Electromechanics?


#259

I sub for the san Francisco school district and do it all from elementary to principal. I mostly babysit special ed “emotionally disturbed” middle schoolers or work with the high school kids who got kicked out of their regular public school for something and corralled all to one location.

but it’s not hard to put a finish on these bare steel parts and don’t think I could fuck it up.

I’m torn between just rubbing on some of this
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx
It doesn’t give the awesome blue color of “hot bluing”

but simple and surely good enough and rather not be heating the steel so much it’s hardened. (edit…don’t think the mild steel will harden having so little carbon and the simple hot method is calling to me http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-colour-steel-with-HEAT/ )
But most likely will be electroplating the parts with copper or tin which I’ve done before and have a kit made already using a wall phone charger and just vinegar mixed with Epson salts as the electrolyte solution.

Gold plating wouldn’t be much harder and just need to get a copper layer on first for adhesion.
cant fuck it up too much and worst case would sand it down and do something else


#260

Monday. She says Monday and I believe her. all of them sent then. she’ll send me some video of the two bearings in and other shots to show its all good first. so just bluing of the stainless nut in the middle and small flange screws. the rest will come with a finish.


#261

Oooohhh pics please


#262

these 4 are being sent today and will be here in three days. the rest they say will be a couple more days as theyre cleaning up some burs from machining.


#263

Six to midnight immediately here…those look serious