New Hobbyking motor - 6374 sensored

Holy moly wow I never knew coming apart like that is expected if you don’t use the spacer tube…

Edit: I’ve been trying to work it out and I still can’t figure out why the spacer tube would matter for the shearing screws… Can somebody explain? Is it balancing forces or something?

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Because the brass tube is like a normal c-clip, without it, you can take the can out from the stator. Same thing goes for your Hoyt i believe.

Magnetic forces pushes can away from stator and loads would brake motor I guess or etc shit I guess :smiley: But my question then wouldn’t brass tube brush against baseplate of motor?

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The motor bearing sits 6mm deeper than the baseplate (inside). The hole in the baseplate for the shaft is 10mm and the outer diameter of the brass tube 9mm. So with a 6.5mm brass tube it sticks out 0.5mm from the baseplate. Damn hope you know what I mean it’s hard to explain in english :laughing:

More and more I understand the whole construction of the SK8 motors.

Without the brass tube and no gap all the forces are on the tiny screws on the side which hold the can to the fan. It looks like plastic to me. So it seems like the fan or the fan bearing is moving. But still don’t undstand why only one motor has this play.

And the 3 screws at the baseplate around the shaft hold the stator

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With me, it’s because the big bearing can move a little bit in the fan ‘house’, in the same way the bearing can move in Trampa superstar wheels. They are not pressfit.

Update. I only have this little play, when the brass/pulley is not mountet.

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So basically you don’t want the shaft to have any space so slip backwards?

So then you’d place a washer on either the motor mount or the motor in that photos case and then press the pulley against it making sure there is a little tension on the shaft so that the shaft wouldn’t go out through the back right?

But If you have a circlip on then you don’t have to worry about that right?

It’s not the shaft only, the can moves as well

In any case you need the brass tube first and then washers if needed.

It’s always easier with pictures…

Normally motors have some washers and then a circlip on the shaft which holds the motor together.

The SK8 motor has no circlip, as you can see the motor bearing is 6mm inside

If you want to make a groove for a circlip or add washers you need the brass tube first.

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And the bearing dosn’t get a lot of dirt…

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Is the sensor ok this waterproof or do I need to waterproof it?

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did you ever find the answer to this i cant seem to get the answer myself

@krazor they go straight into a focbox or sk8 esc yes

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Damn. I have been installing my hobbyking motor wrong for the past 3 months. I need to find the little tube. Where can I find a replacement tube?

He’s not doing so well. See here

https://forum./t/prayers-concerns-for-sean/364/22

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Trampa have them. Its the same they use on their motors.

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Thanks for the link. But shipping for EU is not worth it. I will DIY one. Maybe from the wheel bearing spacer.

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Good luck finding a rod with ID=8mm and OD= 9mm. The original is exactly 9.07mm OD. The info about OD=10mm on Trampa’s page is wrong.

The SK8 has no circlip that’s why a spacer between motor bearing and pulley/gear is necessary. The space between motor plate and motor bearing is 6mm (inside the 10mm hole of the motor with 8mm shaft). That’s why the tube must be smaller than 10mm outside.

6.5mm brass tube from Trampa 191758

Slided on the shaft, only 0.5mm sticks out now

192431

Needs more washers to fill the gap

193012

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Thank you for the measurements. I will try my best. I was wondering why my motor move about 1 cm or 2 when I push on the pulley side way. Maybe I can email hobbyking and ask for replacement parts.

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The original brass tube from HK is 17mm long but would only makes sense if you use HK motor mount and pulleys. What’s your mount?

I am using mounts by boardnamics. It’s about 6mm thick.