originals are here
http://18650.lt/index.php/resources/
If you look around on the site, there are many tips and tricks for printing the modules.
The rest you have to get from the creators directly.
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I hope you are going for the Cr10s pro. I have the Cr10S and itās amazing but needs to be modified a bit to print really well. Over the year I pimped and I am happy with it, but hte Cr10s pro comes with all the upgrades that you needā¦for 520-580 Euro is the best you can haveā¦I am so tempted to buy itā¦
Sorry the off topic.
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Just use the original files. Mine are not tested and everchanging. Haha.
But if you need anything in particular Iāll provide the cad files. Shoot me a pm.
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These are A mm shorter and a mm taller at 74 long n 21mm tall. If anyone is interested in this super minimalist design using epdm rubberbands and copper strip pressed on a 3D prints Iāll post it when done tonight
ā¦
wibeVe6TUm50DWBOfBCGQnAaybz.jpeg) write me. Or if you have any advice on the design
If I get these bands in bulk especially I think this could be cheap.
I believe, based on my own thoughts alone, that using bands is more reliable compression than just a print or even with a thin strip of poron. Donāt know how much youāre compressing the poron but I hear between 20-60% is best for least compression set and staying within the compression zone.
I just altered the design for a lot of flexibility and an individual band compressing each cell.
Iāll press the copper and insert it tonight under the guard for you to see. Between packs I just use a long exposed part of the strip giving a lot of room to twist n flex. Very easy to press and trim w a print and using a guard to protect cells from the sharp edge. Too impatient to post these when doneā¦Iāll post Them done tonight.
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Hummie, do you have any plans to make it look more polished? Rubber degrades over time, do you keep replacing them?
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Looks like you have butyl rubber. If its generic stuff compression set resistance could be fair comparing to poron - exelent. I wont post numbers as its irrelevant when there is no definitive data on rubber hummie used. You say it looks better physically but most of the time it is not how it feels or looks but how it performs under the skinn. I saw butyl rubbers get compressed and do not recover in 2 years. Same would apply to stretch or elongation.
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I was looking at this one
What do you guys recommend?
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Epdm rubber bands which are more durable and heat resistant than nitrile and in terms of material in use its a lot more. True poron is really good compression set but these bandsā¦who knows and never seen comparison. I would like to compare! And can easily add more bands if needed. Iāve got two on there now
Btw, some advice on using poron (urethane blend) came from a person who designed battery for zero motorcycles as i was leaning towards bisco silicone with higher temperature rating and compression force. I just want to clarify for people that my design is not based on poke and pick model, but rather investigation and studie of mechanical, thermal properties and testing of various elastomers and materials. I know its to early to make boldest claims since 2 years have past fom first modules out the door. But i am very confident.
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I know youāve tested the crunk out of them butā¦based on no science and just assumptions I think a band with way more material in use (compression/tension) I think itās a contender.
I am not saying that its not enough force but rather how long it can keep it. Sure you can swap the bands every 2 years and its viable diy solution but me selling modules have to be 110%.
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You know that size does not matter but the punch? And thats not sex talk 
Cause size matters in bed
Take 4130(US) carbon steel and something generic, like CRxxx(eu) steel. You will need far less of the 4130 ( chromium molybden blend)
We are off topic here. Ask on the thread about 3D printing. Anyhow believe me save the money and get a cr10s pro.there is no reason to spend on a old prusa compare to a new creality. Even my cr10s is conperable to the prusa.
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As I understand it based on people who sell the stuff, whatever stuff, they all have different compression set but the more material the better. Yea poron is great but if using like a 1mm piece even if compressed within its ideal percent, a higher compression set material may be better in use and keep compression longer. Wish there was an easy challenge we could do. Even poron will eventually even compress
In my case i dont want a lot of material to allow cell to move more than its needed. I spaced inside to allow for 50-60% compression which leaves ~0.8mm of compressed foam. Not much for cell to flap arround, sure not applicable to boards as they are mounted flat on deck and forces are in different direction.
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IMO the one youāre looking at is the sweet spot (prusa mk3)
I can recommend the Ender 3. Itās a geat printerā¦ you can add auto leveling later on tooā¦ 
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i just ordered the creality!
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Which one? 
the cr10spro
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